Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City

Last stop in Vietnam.
I arrived in Ho Chi Minh City early in the morning, around 5 a.m. I was a bit disoriented at first, not sure where the bus driver (I took another overnight bus) had dropped us off at. But I let instinct take over and crossed the street to walk down the nearest intersecting street. Happily I found myself on the exact road I needed to be on, and after a short 5 minute walk, I was at the door of the hostel my friend from Dalat recommended to me, Eco Hostel. I was able to check in and get a bed right away, but I had to pay for a night and a half for such an early check in. It was absolutely worth it though, because I slept for a few hours in a comfortable bed rather than on an erratic bus.

I woke up around 9 a.m. on got ready to set out for the day. I went to the front desk to ask for tips of where to travel the city when I saw a sign for a free tour. It was starting shortly, so I hurried over and was able to join in. A British man, Adam, who has been living in Saigon for four years headed up the tour much like they are offered in Europe. The tour is free, but you are encouraged to tip at the end whatever you deem the tour worth. It was an incredible tour!

We walked around the city for about three hours, checking out some of the historical and notable sites. Adam was very knowledgeable of each of the places he took us and gave us a great history of each of the spots. I really learned a lot on the trip, which made the places we visited much more interesting. I won't make an exhaustive list of each spot we stopped at, but some were Ben Thanh Market, Saigon Opera House and the Reunification Palace. The tour was the perfect fit for me as I had such little time in the city. I was able to see the important spots worth a visit and find out what made them so noteworthy.
After the tour I went to the War Remnants Museum, which was rather depressing. There were lots of pictures of people who were mutilated and malformed by Agent Orange, a chemical the U.S. used during the Vietnam War. But it was a good thing to see as were some of the weapons, planes and tanks from the war. Next I headed to the market to walk around inside, but nothing intrigued me. I finished the day off with a simple dinner and headed to bed early to sleep before my early morning flight.
It was a short time in Saigon, but I felt like I was there long enough to see what I needed to see. I was pleased with my jaunt around the city.

Saigon Gratitude Journal
1. I am grateful for free tours.
2. I am grateful for learning the history of a place and its people.

Trails & Tales Saigon
http://www.trailstalessaigon.com/

Dalat

Canyoning and friends.
Dalat was incredible! The weather was cooler and the people were nicer than other parts of Vietnam. I took the overnight bus from Hoi An and met some cool people who ended up staying at the same hostel and canyoning with me. We stayed at Smile Dalat Hostel, which is my favorite hostel from Vietnam. The staff were incredibly welcoming and the beds were so comfortable. We also had a big dinner that was much like a family affair. Guests and staff just seemed to be much more relaxed and inviting than in other places I stayed, so we got along really well. I really enjoyed feeling like part of a group (there were about ten of us) especially after so much solo time.
My first day in Dalat I was quite tired from the bus ride, so I mostly just chilled and did a light bit of walking around the city. The sleeper bus left Hoi An around 6 p.m. and arrived in Nha Trang just before 6 a.m. We then had a two and a half hour lay over until we got a regular bus to Dalat, which took about another two and a half hours of driving. Once we finally got to Dalat, we were happy to relax and went out to grab a few beers and some dinner.

 

Canyoning Group 

The next day was the big adventure. We went canyoning! It was incredible. One of my favorite parts of my trip. And it was a great deal too. For $25, we got round trip transportation, lunch, equipment, pictures (including one printed and laminated picture) and a great journey through the waterfalls and cliffs. We had four fantastic guides with us. They were fun, efficient and highly qualified. I felt totally safe in their care and with the equipment provided. It was a fantastically run tour, and I was constantly impressed with their skills and professionalism. The tour group is Highland Sport Travel.
We started the day with a briefing of how to use the equipment and practice abseiling down a steep cliff. Then it was time for the real adventure to start! With our neon orange life vests and helmets on, we were in sharp contrast to the green and brown of the forest around us. Our first challenged was to abseil down a dry 18 meter cliff next to a waterfall. I was a bit nervous at first, but excited to give it a go. Once hanging over the cliff with my rope in hand, I started to walk down, following the guide's instructions.
Walk slowly. Move down step by step. Stop. Look to the left and smile. Picture, picture.
I turned and gave a genuine smile of excitement and satisfaction. I was doing it! Then the real fun began. I had walked past the sloping part of the cliff to the shear rock face. Now it was time to jump down. Feet wide, I leaned back, squatted down and pushed off. Whoosh! For a moment I was sliding down the rope with nothing around me. Then I swung back to the cliff face and did it again, this time pushing off harder and sliding down farther. Each time I slid down a little longer as I got more comfortable with the technique and more confident to let the rope slide through my fingers without gripping it too tight. Once I got to the bottom, I let go and dropped in to a cold river. I swam to the edge and climbed out with a huge grin on my face.
Once everyone made it down, we walked along the river, crossing a sign that marked "restricted area." My excitement only grew! We took a short break to jump in the water and swim to the base of a waterfall for a group picture. Then we walked to a different part of the river, where we got in and slid down a rock in the river. A true water slide. We then continued on to our next stop, a 16 meter dry cliff. This was my favorite part of the experience! I was more comfortable with the technique of abseiling, so I was really able to fly down the side of the cliff. The guides challenged us to make it to the bottom with 3-4 jumps, and I am excited to say I made it with only two jumps (really more like 1.5). It was such fun.
Next we headed to the most challenging part of the course. We went down a 25 meter waterfall, basically sliding our feet down the whole way rather than jumping or walking down. About halfway down the fall, the water crashes over your head, so you have to tuck your head in and look to the right for the guide to direct you down. I was nearing the end: the guide held up two fingers and motioned to the left- two steps to the left-then a big X with his arms-stop-then... oh my I feel like I am slipping, I'll lean back a bit and lift my feet to get more steady, splash! I fell into the water below rather suddenly. I had run out of rope and was pushed down by the waterfall. It wasn't the most graceful way to enter the water, but luckily I was unharmed.

We walked a bit further along the river before stopping in a nice open area and eating lunch. We had a large variety of fruit, cakes and delicious sandwiches. They brought so much food, and it was all so tasty. After stuffing our faces, we trekked on farther to the free dive cliff. There was a 7 meter and 11 meter jumping option, but the 11 meter required you to run and jump, so the guides had us complete the 7 meter before attempting the higher point. I climbed down to the 7 meter point and happily jumped off without too much anxiety. It was great, so I hiked back up and did it again. Then I sat in the pool of water below and watched as others jumped. And I debated.
Should I do the higher jump? The height isn't really intimidating. It's the running part that worries me. What if I slip? Nah, I won't do it. Why risk it. Oh but it looks so fun. And all of these people did it no problem. Alright, I have to.
So I climbed back up set to take the plunge. As I reached the 7 meter point, the guide asked if I would jump it one more time before tackling the higher point. I declined and said I'd rather just go straight to the top. So I continued up where I was met by another guide. "Smile more, you look to serious." He was worried I might panic mid jump, which would certainly lead to injury. I gave a breathy laugh and a weak smile. "Give me a second while I pray." Then I sent up a quick pray to Dad and asked for His protection. Filled with strength and confidence, I opened my eyes and squared in on the destination (well the point of jumping off as I couldn't see the water below). The guide started to count, "1" right as I began my first stride. I heard him utter a surprised, "Oh!" as I took off. Then it was just one, two, three steps and jump! I flew through the air and splashed in to the water. I was so exhilarated and  pleased that I had done it. I really would have regretted it otherwise.

Our final challenge was the "washing machine." We were set to abseil down a 16 meter waterfall. But this time it started with a walk down the dry rock face until we were hanging freely with nothing but the waterfall around us. The key was to just keep going at a steady pace until we got to the end of the rope and fell in. We then got swept down with the waterfall's current before it spit us out into the river. It was a rush and a great end to the adventure. After everyone was collected, we had to hike up a steep hill for about 10 minutes to get to the road. That may have been the most challenging part of the trip! I left completely satisfied and felt like I really accomplished the guides' motto, "Don't be lazy; be crazy!"
That night we were all pretty tired, but we enjoyed that delicious and fun family style dinner. It was really great, because we were able to try several local dishes and enjoy each others company.

Crazy House

The next day I walked around the city with a hilarious girl from my hostel, Zohar, and a friend from canyoning, Eyal. They were both great fun and really good people. I'm glad I was able to hang out with them. We went to the Crazy House, which indeed lived up to its name. It is a guesthouse with a bunch of winding paths and staircases and whacky architecture. The house was really interesting and definitely worth a visit. We also enjoyed checking out the shops inside the Crazy House and had a lot of fun taking pictures, plus some dance party action, because I love to dance, with the crazy hats. After lunch at a vegetarian restaurant that had few vegetarian options, and was out of half of the things we first tried to order, we spent the rest of the day visiting a few shops and relaxing.
Dalat was truly a delight. I really fell in love with the place and now want to go canyoning anywhere possible!

Dalat Gratitude Journal
1. I'm grateful for canyoning.
2. I'm grateful for companionship.
3. I'm grateful for architects.
4. I'm grateful for digital photographs.

Highland Sports Travel
61 Bui Thi Xuan Dalat, Vietnam
http://www.highlandsporttravel.com/
highlandsporttravel@gmail.com
+84 63-352-0521

Dalat Smile Hostel
268-10 Phan Dinh Phung, Ward 2, Dalat, Lam Dong, Vietnam
dalatsmilehostel@gmail.com
+84 91-252-6379

Hoi An

 

Japanese Bridge

Just delightful!
I really loved Hoi An and ended up staying longer than I planned. I arrived Sept. 5 and stayed until Sept. 9. I stayed at the Hoa Binh Hotel, which had some of the cheapest beds in the city and was very comfortable. Hoi An doesn't have much in the way of hostels, but has plenty of hotels. Hoa Binh had six and four bed dorms in addition to single and double rooms, so it was a great substitute. And it offered a delicious breakfast buffet. Plus we got new towels each day and the bed was very comfortable.

The first day I arrived in Hoi An, I needed some time to relax and catch up with friends and family. I spent the afternoon chatting during four consecutive Skype sessions with loved ones. It was really great! I was happy to have an easy day, especially after sweating out a fever the previous night in Hue. I also ran in to a girl, Emily, I met on the overnight bus from Hanoi to Hue at the hotel. So she and I spent some of our time in the city together.
The next day I set out to explore the old quarter. My hotel was really close to the old quarter area, about a 5 minute walk. The ancient town was so cute! The streets are lined with adorable yellow buidlings, and the streets are often closed to automobiles, making it much more pleasant to walk around. I bought an entrance ticket for some of the sites in the city. Tickets cost 120,000 dong (about $6) and allow entrance into 5 sites of your choosing. There are 17 spots to choose from, including old houses, assembly halls, museums and communal houses. I went for the Japanese Covered Bridge, Tan Ky Old House, Trieu Chau Assembly Hall, Quang Trieu Assembly Hall and Quan Cong Temple. The bridge and Quang Trieu Assembly Hall were my favorite spots. I would absolutely recommend visiting both. Overall I found the assembly halls and old houses to be more impressive than the museums and communal houses. There are also several sites that are free, so it isn't imperative to buy a ticket to visit those locations, but something worth paying for. I also visited the Reaching Out Tea House, which is run by speech and hearing "impaired" (as they described it on their pamphlet) for a nice pot of jasmine tea. It was a serene place and offered a nice, quiet place to rest. The staff were kind and the tea was tasty.

My Son

Sunday (Sept. 7) I went to My Son, an old temple site about 23 miles (38 km) outside of Hoi An. I met a German guy, Clemens, at breakfast (he was staying in the same room as Emily) and was excited to find out he planned to go to My Son that morning. I quickly finished my breakfast and joined him for the journey. This was my chance to redeem myself and finally conquer the motorbike. We had a pleasant, safe journey to the temple, and I was pleased to have finally finished a successful motorbike ride. The roads were mostly flat and usually without too much traffic, except for the bit when we were on a major freeway, so it was pretty easy going. And there were great views along the way. The temples at the site, which cost 100,000 dong (about $5) to enter, were lovely and in a good state of ruin with enough remaining to see something worth while. But having previously been to Angkor Wat, My Son left something to be desired.
We had a safe journey back and spent the evening with the other people in his room. We had dinner at a food stall on the river and enjoyed the lanterns that were floating along the river. It was the celebration of the full moon, so many people were out and sending off wishes with the lanterns. It was lovely, but not as spectacular as my research led me to believe it would be. I was hard pressed to find a difference in the city's nighttime appearance from the previous night other than an increased volume of lanterns and boats filled with passengers on the river. Actually the previous night had been more pleasant, because it wasn't as crowded. But it was indeed a lovely sight and I enjoyed my time out with my new friends.

 

Cau Dai Beach

Monday I intended to spend the majority of the day at the beach, but realized I needed to nail down my travel schedule for the remainder of my time and figure out my flights between countries. It took the bulk of the day and was rather stressful. I was sad to have wasted so much time, but glad to have the stress over and things figured out. I biked (bike rental was only 20,000 dong, about $1) to both An Bang (2.5 km from the city) and Cua Dai (4 km from the city) beaches in the bit of daylight I had left. Both beaches were lovely and offered a long stretch of sand. I preferred An Bang, because the sand slopped at a much gentler angle into the ocean than Cua Dai. But Cua Dai had far less pushy peddlers. Either beach is a great option and really worth spending some time at. I wish I had utilized my time a little better and spent more time at the beach. As it was though, I only had about three hours to go to and spend time at both beaches. I wanted to get back to the city before dark, and back to my hotel before it got too late.

I spent my final day in Hoi An doing a cooking class. It was great! I went with Morning Glory Cooking School's course offered at The Market restaurant. The course starts with a buffet breakfast of a variety of Vietnamese dishes. We then did a tour of the market, which was incredibly hot. I was thankful for the delightfully cheesy Vietnamese hats we were given to wear. It offered a bit of relief from the scorching sun. We were also mercifully given cold, wet towels throughout the course, which were a huge help to stave off the heat. Upon our return to the restaurant we were given a tour of the different food stations and a brief description of the food and cooking methods. We were also able to sample many of the foods, including some more adventurous bites. I sampled the jellyfish, pig's ear and some kind of larvae. We also enjoyed tamer options like noodles and dumplings. Finally we spent the remaining two and a half hours doing the actual cooking. Our instructor would first show us the dish, then help us as we prepared it ourselves, and then we ate our creation. We did this for each dish. First we made a cabbage leaf and shrimp mousse soup. Next we marinated chicken and skewered it (then left it aside be barbecued after marinating; the staff at the restaurant took care of the barbecuing). Our third dish was banh xeo a savory, crispy pancake with pork, shrimp and bean sprouts. Finally we made a mango salad, which we ate with our chicken. All of the food was delicious, and the staff was incredibly professional. It was a well run course and offered a lot for the cost. I also really appreciated that they had a large mirror angled behind the instructor, so it made it easy to see what she was doing as she cooked. I was very impressed with the whole thing and would definitely recommend taking the class.
Hoi An was absolutely one of my favorite places in Vietnam. Lots of delicious food, a charming old town and beaches with plenty of soft sand. Basically everything I could want in a travel destination!

Hoi An Gratitude Journal
1. I'm grateful for Skype.
2. I'm grateful for pedestrian/bicycle only streets.
3. I'm grateful for lanterns.
4. I'm grateful for air conditioning.

Hue

 

Outside the Citadel 

Hot, hot hue!
Hue was one of the hottest cities I visited in Vietnam. It was miserable walking around, making it rather unappealing to visit all of the sites in/around the city. I wasn't particularly impressed by Hue and would say it is only worth a visit if you are really in to citadels and/or have plenty of time to kill in Vietnam.
Though, in defense of the city, I was sick the latter half of the day and had to sweat out a fever through the night. I might have enjoyed my time more if I hadn't been ill. And I arrived in the city after a 16-hour over night sleeper bus ride, so I was already fatigued. (The bus was more comfortable than I expected, but it was hard to sleep with the erratic driving and incessant driving; but significantly cheaper than the overnight train).

 

Ruins in the Citadel 

As it was though, the city didn't have much to offer other than the citadel, dragon boat rides along the river and some temples outside of the city. I opted to only visit the citadel, which was huge! It was much larger than I anticipated, and took a few hours to venture around. Some of the buildings were rebuilt, but many still lay in ruin. Some to the point of being a mere pile of rocks. It was fairly interesting to walk around the citadel and peaceful as it was quite empty. It was 105,000 dong (about $5) to enter the citadel.
I spent the remainder of my time in Hue walking along the river and resting in my hostel. The river was quite nice, and I enjoyed the general layout of Hue. The people were nicer than in the north and the city was much calmer. But it is definitely not a must-see spot. I did a one night layover mostly to take the train from Hue to Da Nang... the most beautiful train ride in Vietnam! At least that was what all the blogs and travel sites I visited said. And the ride was rather lovely with some great views of the turquoise ocean. But again, it is not a must-see sight, and if you are short on time, I would recommend skipping it.

Hue Gratitude Journal
1. I'm grateful for warm, fuzzy blankets.
2. I'm grateful for bathrooms with toilet paper.
3. I'm grateful for a hostel close to the bus drop off point.

Halong Bay

 

Beautiful and relaxing.
I decided to go big for my Halong Bay trip and booked a luxury three day/two night tour. I had intended to book with Imperial Tours due to a recommendation I received from a fellow traveler in Sapa, but the company would have charged me a single supplement fee of $20. So I decided to book with another company, choosing Asia Cruise Monkey Island Resort. It turned out to be a great decision, as I thoroughly enjoyed the cruise and my companions.
For $125, the tour included all transportation to/from Hanoi and around Halong Bay, all meals, a cave exploration, kayaking and a night on the boat as well as in a bungalow at Monkey Island Resort. For a full itinerary of the tour, check out their website (note that the website lists the price as $140, but if you book with Hanoi Hostel, you will only be charged $125, which was the best deal from asking other people on the boat how much they paid).

Cruising on the boat and admiring the karsts, of which there are just under 2,000 in the bay, was my favorite part of the trip. It was beautiful and very serene. But I did enjoy the other activities as well. The first day we toured Thien Cung Cave, which is also known as Heaven Cave. It was a pretty good cave as far as caves go, but nothing truly jaw dropping. I did enjoy the figures and characters our tour guide pointed out in the stalagmites and stalactites, though you did have to use a liberal imagination in some cases. We also did a short stint of kayaking around part of the bay. It gave a more intimate view of the karsts and exhibited the beauty of the area. We finished the day with a swim in the bay and relaxing on the boat's sun deck. The sunset was particularly stunning and I later enjoyed the few stars that were visible between the cloud-covered sky.
We spent the first night on the boat, which was quite comfortable. I was lucky enough to have my own room with a delightful double bed and private bathroom. The water pressure in the shower was incredible and the water was nice and warm. I was rather impressed! I slept very well, especially considering the night was plagued by a rain storm. There was a bit of lightning as well, which I enjoyed.

The next day we headed to Monkey Bay Island mid morning and spent the day relaxing on the island. I spent my time lounging on the beach and kayaking to the other side of the island to see the monkeys. I also did a short hike to an overlooking area and got a great view of the spot. It was a very relaxing day. Our last day was pretty uneventful. We had an early breakfast (7 a.m.) and then headed back to the boat to take a slow cruise back to shore. After a fast lunch, we were transported back to Hanoi.
Overall I was very impressed with the tour. It was a great, inclusive package and incredibly relaxing. I really enjoyed not having to think about itinerary or plan what to do. I was pleased to be directed and herded along. And there was a lot of comfortable down time to enjoy. But I think most importantly, I was with a great group of people. Every one was very kind and friendly. And we were all of a similar state of mind, wanting to enjoy the beauty of the area and its tranquility rather than partying it up and getting wasted. Everyone spoke English very well so it was easy for me to communicate with everyone! And happily I ran in to some of my cruise mates when we were back in Hanoi, which was a pleasant way to end my time in that crazy, busy city.
(Also, something to note: Most drinks are not included in the cruise. You only receive a welcome drink and tea or coffee for the final breakfast. Otherwise, you have to buy any drinks, including water, on the ship. And they charge about three times what you would pay normally... except when they push happy hour, but you will still pay much more. I brought a 5 liter jug of water on the ship, which was a fantastic decision-shout out to the girl I met in Sapa who warned me about the drink situation. But be warned that if you buy any drinks and bring them back to the ship, you will be charged a service fee. Since I brought the jug of water on board from the start, I was not charged that fee. Additionally, the stay on Monkey Island Resort has the same drink situation. So I recommend bringing enough water and/or your drink of choice that you will need for the duration of the trip.)

Halong Bay Gratitude Journal
1. I'm grateful for water.
2. I'm grateful for sunscreen.
3. I'm grateful for good people.
4. I'm grateful for English.
5. I'm grateful for tranquil moments.
6. I'm grateful for lightning.

Hanoi

Chaotic and crowded.
Walking the streets of Hanoi was quite a hectic experience. The streets, especially in the Old Quarter, are crawling with motorbike riders, cars and other pedestrians. It is a constant stream of people moving, and you really have to pay attention so you don't end up getting hit.
It was a bit stressful, but I eventually got used to walking around, which I had to after doing so much exploring around the city. My time in Hanoi sandwiched my trip to Halong Bay.
I arrived in the city early Saturday morning (Aug. 30) on the overnight train SP8. I ended up sleeping through our arrival at Hanoi Station, and was violently shook awake by a train steward. I jumped up in a bleary-eyed frenzy and gathered my belongings together as quickly as possible. I was most likely the last passenger off the train! Thankfully Hanoi was the last stop on that train's route.
I headed out to the train station and followed my map (that I received when I flew in to Hanoi) to Hanoi Hostel. I hadn't booked a room, but I was hoping a bed would be available. After a long trek with my bag, I made it to the hostel around 5:30 a.m. At the time, the city was still asleep, and the streets a serene calm. I was able to book a room with the hostel no problem and even got breakfast that morning! It was some exciting stuff, because I has always wanted to just show up to a place and book a room rather than reserving online. So I was pleased it worked out so easily. I showered, ate and quizzed the hostel staff about what sites I should visit in the city. The girl I spoke with was incredibly helpful and told me all of the hot spots to visit.

 

Temple of Literature

 Hoan Kiem Lake

I saw Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Ho Cho Minh Museum, Presidential Palace, the Temple of Literature, St. Joseph's Cathedral, Hoa Lo Prison, Hoan Kiem Lake, Ngoc San Temple, and the Water Puppet Theater. It was a busy day. I walked around from about 9:30 a.m. and arrived back at the hostel around 6 p.m. I enjoyed each of the sites and think they are all worth a visit. And happily, I was able to get a student ticket (10,000 VND) for the Hoa Lo Prison and two temple entrances (regular price 25,000 dong).
I was hungry and tired by the time I returned to the hostel, but there weren't many restaurants in the vicinity near my abode. I started getting hangry (hungry and angry) and was so frustrated as I fruitlessly (and foodlessly) walked the streets near the hostel in search for somewhere to eat.

 

Banh Cuon

Thankfully, after a short plea to God to guide me somewhere, anywhere, I found a restaurant. I walked in and asked the tourists dining there what they ordered. Turns out I ended up at a famous restaurant known for its Banh Cuon (steamed rice cake with meat and topped with fried garlic). I was pleased to have stumbled upon such a noteworthy place and enjoyed two wonderful plates of Banh Cuon. It was really delicious, and not just because I was starving.
Later that night I ventured out to La Bomba Latina and was able to get in a few salsa and bachata dances. It was a great vibe and a really sweet group of people. I wished I could have stayed out dancing all night, but I needed to get some sleep before leaving early the next morning for my Halong Bay tour (a separate post will follow).
I returned to Hanoi from the tour Tuesday (Sept. 2) afternoon. It rained much of the day, so I was pleased I had done the majority of my sightseeing previously during the good weather. I didn't do much on Tuesday other than venture around the Old Quarter and grab some food. Happily as I was walking around looking for a place to eat, I ran in to two of the girls on my Halong Bay cruise. They were near the end of their meal, so we just chatted a bit and I continued my search. I zeroed in on a restaurant that had two dishes I wanted to try: Bun Bo Nam Bo (a delicious noodle dish with beef, yum!) and Nem Cua Be (crab spring rolls). I had just decided which table to sit at when I ran into another member of my Halong Bay tour. Miguel was also out in search for food, so he joined me. It was a nice chat and great to dine with company.
The next day I slept in as long as possible and hung out at the hostel for a significant chunk of the morning. In the early afternoon I walked around the Old Quarter a bit more. I went to Giang Cafe to try their unique and famous drink, egg coffee.

 

Egg Coffee

The best coffee I have ever had in my life. No exaggeration! It was incredible. According to the cafe's website, the drink is made with chicken egg yolk, Vietnamese coffee powder, sweetened condensed milk, butter and cheese. The coffee is brewed and the other ingredients are whisked together and added to the coffee. The cup of coffee is then placed in a bowl with hot water to keep the drink hot. If you do only one thing in Hanoi, this is it. Go and drink this coffee. I only had it on the last day I was in the city, so I decided to have it twice. After the first cup, and a nice conversation with a guy who also just finished teaching in Korea (Chris was in a small village near Daegu and was originally from Connecticut), I headed out to get some food... clearly much of my travel is centered around my tummy and trying new foods. I went to Cau Go Street and ate Bun Thang. It was a soup with thin rice noodles and small slices of chicken. Pretty similar to Pho, but with a different overall taste. It was really delicious. Then I popped over to a bakery to grab a muffin and croissant for my bus ride to Hue that night. I still had a bit of time before the bus was scheduled to leave, so I figured I'd go back and get that second cup of egg coffee. It was really a great decision, and the second cup was just as delicious as the first. And since it was just less than a dollar, I didn't feel guilty indulging.
Then I finally headed back to my hostel and rested until the bus picked me up, well the shuttle to the bus really. It was a long night of travel to Hue. More to come on that later.

Hanoi Gratitude Journal
1. I'm grateful for helpful people.
2. I'm grateful for trees.
3. I'm grateful for salsa dancing.
4. I'm grateful for included breakfast.
5. I'm grateful for maps.
6. I'm grateful for street signs.

Sapa

Rolling hills, rice terraces and raging waterfalls.
Sapa is lush and gorgeous. Green is the most prominent color in the area, but it never becomes monotonous. The city and surrounding villages are absolutely stunning. 
I spent four days and three nights in Sapa, which in truth was one of each too many. Though I did enjoy getting a nice, leisurely start to my travels. And the area is really beautiful, so it wasn't a total waste!
After an overnight train ride from Hanoi (on the SP3, which left Hanoi right on time at 9:50 p.m. and arrived about an hour behind schedule at 7:40 a.m.; cost was 650,000 VND/ $30.50 for the soft sleeper, which was quite comfortable and clean), I arrived in Lao Cai. Thankfully I booked a pickup with my hotel, which turned out to be the cheaper option and was really much more convenient than trying to find someone to take me to Sapa when I was still wiping the sleep from my eyes.
I stayed at Green Valley Hotel, which I would definitely recommend! The staff was quite nice and helpful. The hotel is located a bit outside of the main Sapa area, but it is a benefit. It is a short 10 minute walk to the center of Sapa and only about 5 minutes to get to the start of the restaurants and shops. The hotel is up on a hill with an incredible view of the rice paddies across the way. And the rooms are comfortable, clean and cheap! My stay in the four-bed dorm, which really was just a hotel room with three (yep, not four!) twin beds and en-suite facilities, was only $3 per night. There was also a nice common area with a pool table and a restaurant with good, fairly cheap food.
My first day in Sapa I mostly just walked around the immediate town area and hung out with some of the other hotel guests. I was not fully rested from the overnight train ride the night before, so I was lagging and decided to relax.

 

Heading to the Villages

The next day was a completely different story. I set out in the early afternoon and hiked a bit more than 10 miles round trip to two of the nearby villages, Lao Chai and Ta Vang. I walked through the rice paddies and the mountains, constantly stunned by the gorgeous views. I wasn't always sure where to go, but would run in to village women who would point me in the right direction. I decided to venture out alone, but there are several tours that will take you to the villages or you can pay a village lady to take you. I figured I'd save some cash, since I have just started my travels. It worked out really well and was plenty enjoyable. Perhaps I didn't get the full experience others did-say with an overnight at a village home or even just a lunch-but I was content. I did, however, eat dinner with my fellow hotel guests that night. A Vietnamese family was also in the restaurant celebrating a birthday, and they were kind enough to share their cake with us. It was such a sweet treat!

 

Thac Bac 

My final full day in Sapa, I set out with the intention of renting a motorbike and riding up to Silver Falls (Thac Bac) and along Tram Ton Pass. It being my first (ok, second...Ubud, Indonesia, where I freaked out and decided not to ride) time driving a motorbike, I was a bit nervous. I got a quick run down of what to do and decided to just go for it. Two seconds after taking off, I panicked. I thought I was going to run over a little village lady, so instead of letting go of the throttle and correcting my steering, I pulled a sled-gone-out-of-control-downhill bail out. Or really, I crashed. Thankfully I wasn't going fast enough to do any real damage (a bruise and minor abrasion to my left calf were all I suffered), and I didn't hit any one. The bike just fell to the ground and I had to catch myself from falling with it. My ego and pride did suffer, but I decided not to rent the bike. So I set off, walking, into town and had some breakfast. After gathering myself, I went to another bike place and asked for a guided tour. I was able to talk the guy down to $10, which secured me a driver to take me to Thac Bac and Tram Ton Pass. Oh, and a short lesson on how to drive an automatic bike upon my return. I was determined to acquire the skill!

 

Tram Ton Pass

My driver, Tian, was really sweet, and I didn't mind paying double what I would have paid to rent the bike and drive myself. Because, really, my life is worth way more than $5 and who knows how much I might have racked up in medical expenses? And I am really glad that I didn't just throw in the towel and mope around all day, because the waterfalls and the pass were my favorite part of Sapa. Both were incredibly beautiful! The rice terraces are an impressive feat of man, which has led to a stunning view. But it is nothing in comparison with the masterful artistry with which God has landscaped parts of this Earth. After our short adventure up the winding hills of the pass, we headed back to Sapa, where I got another go a driving a motorbike. This time I was prepared: it's all about the throttle...just let it go a bit if you are going to fast...don't freak out...just breathe. These thoughts in mind, I started the engine and took off...after establishing a wide, open gap in traffic. And I'm happy to say it was a complete success. I felt a bit foolish for making it such a big deal and seemingly incredibly difficult. Because really, it was quite as easy as everyone made it out to be. That's not to say that I didn't stall out once or twice from revving the engine too little, but I was pleased indeed. Now I just have to wait for the next time I want to rent a bike to see the sights.
My truly final day in Sapa, the heavens unleashed their sorrows at my departure. But seriously, it rained tremendously all through the night and in to the next morning. The weather didn't really make me much inclined to venture out, but I decided to enjoy a bit more of Sapa before I left. So I went jaunting around the city once more and had my final meal in town. It was then another shuttle bus ride back to the train station to catch my overnight train to Hanoi.
Though I did enjoy my overall time in Sapa, I feel inclined to note a negative. The village ladies are like vultures! The minute they see a tourist, they pounce. It starts out innocently enough... "Hello. Where are you from? What's your name?" until in becomes, "You want shopping? You buy from me." It's all smiles and friendliness until you tell them you really aren't interested in shopping. And still they persist. No matter how many times you say no, they continue to ask. Eventually I just got steely and ignored people completely. I felt rude at first, but I was eventually frustrated at feeling so. I was just trying to enjoy my time in Sapa and take in the views. It is not my personal responsibility to buy from every single village woman and support every family in the area! Rant aside, I decided to compromise and give people a slight smile with a firm head shake and cast down eyes to clearly express my intentions without seemingly utterly aloof. And it appears it will be something for me to adopt as a way of life in the pushy country. And so it is.
Now on to a more positive note. A friend recently challenged me on facebook to write three things I am thankful for every day for a calendar week. I'm not really one to jump on the bandwagon with facebook challenges (or really any social media challenge), but this is one I can get behind. Just in my own way. Rather than posting each day for a week on facebook, I've decided to conclude with the things (any number I deem necessary) I am/was most thankful for during my time in each destination I travel.
Sapa Gratitude Journal
1. I'm so grateful for sunshine!
2. I'm grateful for the relief of cool weather.
3. I'm grateful for a determined attitude.
4. I'm grateful for times of rest.
5. I'm grateful for the undeniable beauty that is abundant in nature.

Goodbye Korea, Hello New Adventures

A lot has changed since my last blog post, including my hair. It went from red to platinum blonde to light brown. And then the cut changed from an equal length around the head, to one shaved side to a mohawk to buzzed.
But more importantly, I have wrapped up my time in Korea and am currently traveling Southeast Asia. It's incredible to think that my two years in Korea have come to a close. It was a life-changing experience, and I am so grateful for the relationships I established in the ROK. Friends became family, and I fell deeper (and back) in love with God. I am so thankful for His relentless love and unconditional mercy and grace.
I've had many wonderful experiences in Korea since my last post. Too many to make an exhaustive list. So some highlights:
-chatting with my amazing friends over several delicious cups of tea at the Happy Tea Shop
-my 25th birthday
-eating live octopus and silkworm pupae
-salmon sushi at Sushi Last
-AIA Real Life : Now Music Festival
-Shanna's wedding and hanging with the family

It was difficult to leave Korea. I was sad to say goodbye to so many fantastic friends and a country I really enjoyed. But I am thankful to have an experience and people worth missing. And the world is so accessible that I know I will be able to see my dear friends again (plus we always have Heaven if we don't meet again on Earth).
During my time in Korea I learned so much about myself. What makes me tick; what frustrates me; what makes me happiest; what I truly consider important. And the list could go on. But I think the most important lesson I learned was that home isn't a location or a building; it's the people you come to love. I'm so blessed to have so many homes in so many parts of the world.

I'm currently waiting in a cafe, which I have practically made a new home at, in Hanoi, Vietnam to catch my overnight train to Lao Cai. I have been here for about four and a half, and I have another one more to go until I head back to the train station to catch my train. It has been a great journey thus far:
5:30 a.m. woke up
6:35 a.m. goodbye apartment, rode the subway to Dongdaegu Bus Station
7:40 a.m. rode the bus to Gimhae Airport in Busan, South Korea
9:00 a.m. arrived and checked in for my flight (ate my favorite Korean snacks)
11:05 a.m. departed from Busan
1:10 p.m. landed in Hanoi (four hour flight- two hour time difference)
2:10 p.m. left the airport after going through customs and such
2:25 p.m. found local bus 17 just in time to catch a ride to the main part of the city (9,000 VND/ $.42)
3:40 p.m. rode bus 1 to Hanoi Train Station (7,000 VND/ $.33)
3:55 p.m. got my overnight train ticket to Lao Cai
4 p.m. onward, chilling at this cafe

Everything has been going really smoothly-hopefully I'm not jinxing myself!-and I've met a lot of helpful people.
Some notes:
Bus 17 is way out away from the doors of the airport. You have to walk past the crew pick up area, and cross over to an area somewhat shielded by trees. Just keep asking people where local bus 17 is (don't be fooled by the minibus driver with a bus numbered 17 as almost happened to me unless you want to pay 40,000 VND) and trust your instinct to go a bit farther. It is really in an area of it's own. The ride took about an hour and 15 minutes. Ride until the final stop.
Bus 1's platform is across from where bus 17 drops you off. It is as the front most station. The bus came about 5 minutes after bus 17 dropped me off. There will be several motorcyclists asking you if you want a ride in to town. Up to you, but if you have time, I suggest waiting for the bus. That ride was about 10 or 15 minutes to the train station, which is stop Ga Ha Noi (means Hanoi Train Station).
Also, two people are working on the bus. One drives and the other comes and collects the fee. You can sit down first and pay when he comes to you.
And when you get to the train station, be sure to get a number to buy a ticket. Otherwise you will be waiting in line to no avail. The queue number is available at a machine on your right hand side just before entering the ticket area. There are three choices, all written in English. The first to buy a ticket, the second for a function I forgot, and the third to return tickets.
I've got a soft sleeper for my epic journey on train SP3 21:50-06:25. We'll see how it goes.

Feasting on Fido

I finally tried 보신탕, which is dog soup.

I'm sure you've just had an involuntary reaction: disgust, awe. I get it. Dog soup isn't a common dish around the world, so my decision to try it is a little hard to digest.

So let's dig in to that a bit. First, it's important to know that the dish is seen as a specialty in Korea and is viewed with mixed opinions. Many Koreans have never eaten dog, do not agree with serving dog meat and think it should cease. They are also critical of the methods used to kill the dogs, which may include beating or hanging, but it is uncommon these days as most dogs are instantly killed with an electric shock. Others, especially the older crowd, want to continue the practice, seeing it as part of the country's tradition. Additionally, the dog meat doesn't come from just any dog running around the street. The common breeds, Nureongi (누렁이) and Hwangu (황구), are raised as livestock.

Personally, I don't see a problem with eating an animal that is raised for the purpose of consumption. Ideally it would be raised in a nice environment and killed humanely. So I decided to try out this specialty while the opportunity was available. 

Now, on to the experience. I had been wanting to try dog for a while, but it wasn't easy to find people who wanted to go with me. And it wasn't something I wanted to do alone. I needed to react in real time with someone sharing the experience! Luckily my friend Anton also wanted to give it a whirl, so we headed to a restaurant in downtown Daegu. We went to Cheongdo Restaurant (청도 식당). On the way to the restaurant we joked about it having pictures of dogs on the storefront (this actually happens occasionally: posters of fluffy yellow ducks lining the walls of a duck restaurant entrance), but thankfully there weren't any pictures of dogs. There were, however, some goats pictured. I'm not sure if the restaurant also served goat, but it was funny.

We each ordered the soup, which was 10,000 won (a bit less than $10) each. The soup was incredibly hot when it came out, so I had to give it a bit of time to cool off before I could start. I was glad to have the time though, because it gave me a moment to catch my breath and settle my stomach. I was a little nervous, but mostly excited. I was finally going to try some dog! 

Preparing for the first bite.

The first bite I took was a fatty piece, which ended up being one of two pieces of that style, that had very little meat on it. It wasn't too bad, but it was chewy and bland. Round two provided a much better experience. I ate a nice chunk of meat, which was really tasty. The meat was a dark grey and had a nice meaty texture. It didn't really have a distinct flavor, but was very tender. I would say the texture was what I imagine the stringiness of pulled pork mixed with the firmness of a thick steak would be like. After my second bite, I was sold and really enjoyed the soup. The soup had a rich, mildly spicy broth filled with a generous helping of meat along with green onions, mushrooms and some other vegetables.

First bite.

Contemplating...

Yum! I like it.

We also received a few side dishes, including bean sprouts, peppers and a mysterious cold cut of dog. Anton and I tried to figure out what part of the body it came from, but we reached no solid conclusion. Whatever it was, it was chewy and cold. Absolutely awful! I chewed it as little as possible and drank some tea to help wash it down. I then decided to eat a pepper to help cleanse my palate. Was that ever a mistake! The peppers are tricky, because their spiciness is inconsistent. I picked one of the hottest peppers I have had in Korea, and my mouth was on fire. Tears leaked from my eyes; my nose was running. Thankfully the heat died down within a few minutes and I was able to enjoy my dog soup again.

My dog-eating adventure was a delightful experience. I really did enjoy the soup, though my stomach did the occasional jump as I remembered that I was eating dog. I am really glad that I tried it. I don't feel the need to run out and get it every week, but I wouldn't be opposed to eating it again if the opportunity arose.

Bonus shot- Anton liked it too.

Long Weekend

I had a much-needed, long break from work the first weekend of this month. May 1 was labor day, May 2 my school was closed, May 3 and 4 were the regular weekend, May 5 was Children's Day and May 6 was Buddha's birthday, making for a fabulous 6-day weekend! It was incredibly refreshing to get away from school for so long. I traveled to Busan and Seoul, which was a nice change of pace from Daegu. It had been months since I had been to either city.

Thursday (May 1), I headed to Busan in the early afternoon, stopping first in Gwangalli Beach. It was the first time I've been. I wasn't super impressed, but it did seem to have a nice offering of restaurants. And I want to see it some time at night to enjoy the light show on the bridge. I didn't spend too much time there. Just walked the length of the beach and grabbed a late lunch at a Vietnamese restaurant.

I then headed toward Samgwangsa and met up with Meghan. We headed to the temple and enjoyed one of the most beautiful displays of lanterns in Korea for Buddha's birthday. The lanterns were impressive during the day, but they really shined (haha, I'm so punny) when they were lit at night. The temple itself was also one of the most interesting temples I have seen in Korea. Most of the temples tend to be a bit monotonous, but this one had a variety of unique features. It was really gorgeous, especially with the rows and rows of lanterns. After visiting the temple, I headed back home to Daegu.

The next day I got a lazy start and eventually headed up to Seoul. I arrived fairly late, so I just headed to Itaewon for dinner. I went to JR's Southern Style BBQ, which was pretty disappointing. I got a half rack of baby back ribs, but they were really tough and seemed like fairly crappy meat. Then I headed to my hostel. I stayed at Pine Tree Guest House near the Samgakji subway stop. It was a nice place with comfortable beds and lovely facilities. But I forgot how much is sucks to sleep in a dorm style room! I didn't get a solid night's rest while I was there, but that's just part of the hostel experience. 

Saturday I headed to Everland. It was very similar to Disneyland. There were a few rides, the themes were heavy and there were lots of characters and some parades. I thought it was a pretty nice place, but one day was definitely enough for me. I am more of a thrill seeker and roller coaster rider, so the theme park is not my favorite. That being said, there were a few good coasters, namely the T-Express, a wooden coaster with one of the highest drops in the world. It was a lot smoother than most wooden coasters I've been on. And another bonus was that they served beer (cans and draught) in the park. I just enjoyed that is was available there. But the park is such a journey from Seoul that I wouldn't say it is a must see.

I left my hostel around 9:15 a.m., took the subway to Gangnam, waited an hour at the public bus stop, rode the bus (number 5002) for an hour and a half, and finally took a 10-minute shuttle from the parking lot to the front gates of the park. All in all, the journey took about three and a half hours! Granted that was using public transportation, so driving on your own or taking a taxi would probably be much faster. But at about $3 for the one-way journey, it is hard to sacrifice the great price to save some time.

In the evening I headed back to Itaewon for dinner. I intended to try out Vatos Urban Tacos, an upscale Mexican restaurant, but the line was insane. One girl said they had been waiting an hour just to get a buzzer, let alone to be seated any time soon. So I debated what to eat instead and ended up at Taco Bell. And I'm glad I did. Taco Bell really is its own genre of food, and it is so tasty! It really hit the spot and was a nice treat.

Sunday I met up with Jenny and she and I headed to church. Before the service, we grabbed a delicious lunch at a small cafe. We each got a tasty panini and scrumptious, fresh-squeezed glass of juice. Then we went to Every Nation Church for their international service. It was amazing! That place is so filled with God's presence and love. I wept from the first note of worship to the end of the message. They weren't tears of conviction or guilty or sadness; they were tears of awe and veneration. I just felt so overwhelmed by His spirit. And the worship was beautiful. The lead singer had a lovely voice. And the message was powerful and so timely. It was all about being God's masterpieces and loving God and ourselves so we can love others. They showed this excellent skit, which really captured the essence of the message, check it out if you have time. I definitely plan to visit that church again any time I am in Seoul on a Sunday.
After church Jenny and I headed to Hongdae and grabbed a tea before splitting ways to meet up with other friends. I also found a hoop nose ring, which I have been wanting for a few months now! I'm so glad that I was finally able to find it somewhere in Korea. Hongdae really has a unique vibe from the rest of the country. It is such a diverse, artsy place. I'm a big fan.

Later in the evening I met up with Taejoon. I still think it's hilariously awesome that we randomly met in a hostel in Switzerland, but have kept in touch and hang out every once in a while. We grabbed dinner at a Japanese-run ramen place. It was so delicious! We each got the black ramen, which was in a nice mildly spicy soup and had two melt-in-your-mouth tender pieces of pork. It was definitely the best ramen I have had in Korea and is very similar to the quality stuff you will find in Japan. After dinner we headed to a beer garden place and chatted while drinking a few beers. I enjoyed a couple of Hefe-weizens and a Blue Moon (I can't even remember the last time I was able to get a Blue Moon, and it was so good). It was great to catch up with Taejoon.

Monday Jenny and I met up again for lunch in Itaewon at a Greek restaurant. I was hopping to enjoy their gyro lunch special, but it isn't available on holidays. It worked out well though, because we shared a Greek salad and each got spanakopita. It was really delicious and so fresh. We then headed to an international food store and bought a few items before finally taking the train back to Daegu. On the final day of my vacation, I lounged around at home and squeezed in a Costco trip. It was nice to take a lazy day to recuperate from my time away.

Little Adventures

Nothing too big has been going on lately; I've just been enjoying life with friends, food and fun. But I have had a few small adventures in the past few weeks (with the exception of a fairly significant outing this past weekend, which will be detailed in a following post!).

I've finally started attending Zumba classes here in Daegu, which I've been meaning to do for months! It has been so much fun and a great way to work out. I'm glad I got my lazy butt in gear!

I also went to see the Phantom of the Opera (live) with Jenny and Cynthia during the second weekend of April. The performance was spectacular! I got the chills when the orchestra played the opening music. I was very impressed with the company's performance (it was a Western group, so it was performed in English) and the orchestra. Though I wouldn't have minded if the phantom had a bit more of an ominous voice. Overall it was a quality show and fun to see such a classic.
The next week our church had a Seder dinner the Friday before Easter. It was my first Seder experience. I really enjoyed seeing the whole process from start to finish and partaking in all the traditions. We had to adapt it a bit to fit with the things we had available in Korea, but I was really impressed with how smooth and legitimate the event was. And the food, once we finally got to the feasting portion, was absolutely delicious. It was a great experience!
The next day was quite busy. I attended a wedding, went to an evening church service and danced at another bachata event (which was an absolute blast). My previous coteacher Eunji (은지) was sweet enough to invite me to her wedding. I was really excited to go, because I was happy for her and it was my first Korean wedding! I had been briefed by friends who've been to other weddings about the process before I attended, but it was still an interesting experience.

I would say the goal of a Korean wedding is efficiency and speed. The whole ceremony, including taking pictures with the couple, was finished within half an hour. And many of the patrons left after the bride completed her walk down the aisle. And the majority of those who stayed proceeded to have loud conversations throughout the entire ceremony. There was even a child with a barking toy dog running free in the back! Additionally, the lights were used excessively, flickering on and off for different parts of the ceremony while the staff ran around, instructing everyone about what to do. My favorite of whom was the lady, dressed in jeans and a baggy T-shirt, who kept adjusting Eunji's dress, making sure it was perfectly placed for each picture. It all seemed like a big show with an under-rehearsed act and an inattentive audience rather than an important celebration. But I guess that is just a difference in culture! And I was happy to show my support for my friend and enjoy the buffet meal at the end of the ceremony. I'm definitely glad I was able to experience a Korean wedding before heading home.
On Sunday a few friends went out to a traditional makgeolli joint after church to celebrate Vincent's birthday. It was a nice, relaxed evening of drinking and hanging out. And I was impressed we found the place, because it had been more than a year since we had gone previously, but we zeroed in on it in the first try.
The following week was pretty quiet; mostly just work and lounging at home. Though I am currently taking more advantage of having access to my roof. I started doing yoga up on my roof when the weather is nice, which has been more frequent as of late. My roof has a really great view! I can see much of the surrounding buildings, but also the mountains that hug the area. It is a nice, serene spot. I'm really loving spending time up there.
The next weekend I watched Captain America with Elizabeth and Meghan. The movie was definitely much better than the first one, but it was still a bit ridiculous. Though it was a fun movie to see and nice for a simple evening. After the movie, we headed to an all-you-can-eat barbecue place. I finally tried 곱창 (gopchang pig intestines) and 막창 (makchang, pig intestines/rectum). It wasn't too bad, but it's not something I need to eat often. It had a lot of fatty tissue, and I'd rather eat actual meat. But I'm definitely glad I finally tried them both.

The last Sunday of the month, we had a basketball tournament after church. It was so much fun and reminded me just how much I love playing the game. I was definitely not in basketball shape, but I still loved every second of it. I played last year as well and had a blast, but this year was even better, because the competition and skill level was significantly higher this time around. April was a great month!

Wonderful Weekend

 Last weekend was amazing from start to finish! I spent it with wonderful people and doing lots of fun things. Friday night I met up with my lovely friend Rina for dinner (at Nazar Kebab- love Turkish food!) and catching up. It had been far too long, and I really enjoyed spending time with her and learning what she has been doing and is planning to do. We also enjoyed a tasty bubble tea after dinner and chatted even more. It was a delightful evening!

 Saturday I headed to the jimjilbang (Korean public bath house/sauna) with Jenny and Elizabeth. There is a really nice one fairly close to my house, so it is convenient for me to get to, but I just don't do it often enough. We spent the early afternoon sweating in the co-ed sauna, wearing our fashionable jimjilbang gear, and then soaking in the warm baths. It was incredibly relaxing. We also all got an adjuma scrub down. It was Jenny and Elizabeth's first time! I really love the scrub down and definitely needed it this time! All my old skin was scrubbed off, leaving a smooth layer of soft skin. It felt like I shed my winter coat and am now ready for spring.

 After the jimjilbang we headed downtown to watch the short play, Pirates of Penzance. It was a fun comedy performed by several foreigners in Daegu, a few of whom I know. The show was great and had lots of hilarious cultural references. I was impressed with the talent we have in Daegu and happy to finally see one of their shows. After the show Elizabeth and I went to Nazar Kebab for dinner (seriously, I love this place; that is not the first time I have been two days in a row) and then enjoyed a coffee at my favorite coffee shop in Daegu, Waiting Coffee. We then headed to Traveler's Bar and Grill to hang out with a few other people. 

 I left fairly soon after, because I was headed to a bachata party at Babalu, a salsa club in Daegu. I originally wasn't sure if I wanted to attend the party, because it was 20,000 won, but now I am so glad I went! It was worth every cent. Turned out to be the best night of dancing I've experienced in Korea and is in the top three for best nights of dancing of all time! I am still pumped just thinking about it and wish I could go back and dance even more! Koreans really know how to get down and have such flair and style. And of course, I loved dancing with all of my foreigner friends as well. I wish I could convey how amazing it was, but I just can't find the right words to express it. The bachata party itself lasted til about 3:30 a.m. But we weren't done yet, because we headed to another venue for an after party. I stayed out until 6 a.m., dancing the majority of the time. I would have stayed even longer if I didn't have any plans for Sunday! I had to drag myself home so I could get some sleep. And since the subway was up and running again, it was a cheap way to get home. Seriously so much fun!

 After a brief nap, I was up again to start my Sunday. I went to church and then headed downtown with Elizabeth to grab some dinner. After eating, we did some shopping at H&M. It was a nice day and great to see everyone at church. I headed home and went to bed pretty early, trying to catch up on some sleep. It was a wonderful weekend!

 And seriously, the dancing was incredible.

Gurye Sansuyu Flower Festival

My friends, Jenny and Elizabeth, and I headed to Gurye for the Sansuyu Flower Festival on March 22. It was a pretty small festival compared to others I have been to, but it still offered quite a bit. We took a bus early Saturday morning to Gurye, where we stayed the night at Little Prince Pension. It was a really cute place with a log cabin feel. And the bed was super comfortable, which is not always the case in Korea.
We spent the rest of Saturday walking around the festival grounds. There were several booths offering typical festival foods and some for making various items from the sansusyu flower or berry. We also wandered through the surrounding area, which was filled with lots of trees covered with the yellow flower. I think the trees are best appreciated very close up, so you can see the interesting shape of the flower, or from quite a distance, so it looks like a sea of yellow. They weren't the most impressive blossoms I've seen, but they had their own unique beauty. And it produces a delicious berry, which makes some tasty tea and makgeolli (Korean rice wine).

Since we were at the festival on the opening day, we were able to enjoy a bit more exciting of a schedule than the other days presented. There were several live performances throughout the day, including a percussion band and several dancers and singers. Girl's Day, a fairly popular K-pop group, also performed. We didn't know about the performances beforehand, so it was a nice surprise and a delightful experience. We were sat on some rocks near the top of a (man-made) fountain to watch the performances, giving us a nice view of the stage. And the experience was made all the better by the delicious sansuyu makgeolli we drank. We bought two bottles of prepackaged makgeolli from one of the stalls, but then later discovered a booth selling freshly made makgeolli for an even better price. We were a bit bummed at first, because the fresh stuff was so much better. So we drank one of the prepackaged bottles, but then decided the fresh stuff was just too good to pass up. We ended up drinking a bottle of the fresh stuff as well, skipping our second prepackaged bottle. I would definitely prefer to have fresh makgeolli any time! I was amazed at the difference in taste. It was a fantastic evening.

Sunday we headed to Hwaeomsa Temple, which was very close to our pension. There was a 3,500 won charge to get in, which I thought was a bit steep. The temple was lovely and had a bit different of a lay out from other Korean temples I've seen. There were also a few unpainted buildings, which really allowed the beauty of the wood and carvings to show. The trees and surrounding mountainside were also beautiful, and the weather was perfect. It was a really lovely area and a serene place to stroll through.
After our hike, we checked out and headed back to the festival area with the intention of visiting the hot spring spa in the area. Unfortunately, by the time we made it to the area (traffic at festivals in Korea is insane! they just never seem to plan strategically for it), we didn't have enough time to enjoy the hot springs. We ended up getting (a late) lunch at one of the restaurants in the area, and then riding the bus back to the Gurye bus terminal to catch our bus back to Daegu. The ride back to Daegu felt so long, and I was happy when we finally arrived in the city a quarter to 9 p.m. I then rode the subway home, unpacking and relaxing a bit before turning in for the night.
Overall, the Sansuyu Festival was quite nice. I was so glad to share it with my lovely friends. They definitely made the experience even better!

Visitng the Orthopedic Doctor

My spine.

My favorite part of the process!

 Two weeks ago I was washing my feet in the shower and had to twist to catch my balance, which I did in just the right way to strain my low back muscle. It was a quick, sharp pain that started out fairly subtle but got worse throughout the day. I was a bit nervous about the extent of the damage (though I figured it was only the muscle), so I decided to head to an orthopedic surgery office, which was within a 7 minute walk to my house. It was really convenient! My coteacher was kind enough to write my condition and what happened in Korean, but the doctor spoke English quite well, so it was easy to communicate with him. He checked my spine and decided that it was only a strain on the muscle.

 I then received some simple, but delightful physical therapy. I laid on a heating pad for about 10 minutes, then had two machines target the low back. The first machine (pictured above) was my favorite! The four suction cups were attached to my low back, and then the machine sent pulsing waves of vibration to my muscles. It felt like someone was alternating between kneading my back and pinching it together. It was really relaxing, and I was disappointed when the timer went off. The session ended with the second machine, which I am still a bit confused by. I don't really know what it is, but it essentially felt like it was sending small electric zaps to my muscles. It was very subtle and an interesting feeling! I then headed to a pharmacy for the pain killer and muscle relaxer the doctor prescribed for the next three days (three times a day).

 But three days later the pain was worse, so I went back. The second time he did an X-ray of my spine and came to the same conclusion. He said I just needed to give it a bit more time. I went through the physical therapy process one more time and got another round of medicine. But I decided to stop taking the pills the next day, since they didn't seem to make a huge difference. Instead, I got some medicinal hot patches to stick on my back. They really helped! I put one on in the morning to wear throughout my day at work, and a new one on at night. The constant heat helped relieve my muscles and reduced the pain. Overall, the pain lasted for about a week. I am happy to be back to normal and not having any more pain to slow me down. And I was again amazed by the speed, efficiency and low cost of Korean health care. They definitely do medicine well here!