Halong Bay

 

Beautiful and relaxing.
I decided to go big for my Halong Bay trip and booked a luxury three day/two night tour. I had intended to book with Imperial Tours due to a recommendation I received from a fellow traveler in Sapa, but the company would have charged me a single supplement fee of $20. So I decided to book with another company, choosing Asia Cruise Monkey Island Resort. It turned out to be a great decision, as I thoroughly enjoyed the cruise and my companions.
For $125, the tour included all transportation to/from Hanoi and around Halong Bay, all meals, a cave exploration, kayaking and a night on the boat as well as in a bungalow at Monkey Island Resort. For a full itinerary of the tour, check out their website (note that the website lists the price as $140, but if you book with Hanoi Hostel, you will only be charged $125, which was the best deal from asking other people on the boat how much they paid).

Cruising on the boat and admiring the karsts, of which there are just under 2,000 in the bay, was my favorite part of the trip. It was beautiful and very serene. But I did enjoy the other activities as well. The first day we toured Thien Cung Cave, which is also known as Heaven Cave. It was a pretty good cave as far as caves go, but nothing truly jaw dropping. I did enjoy the figures and characters our tour guide pointed out in the stalagmites and stalactites, though you did have to use a liberal imagination in some cases. We also did a short stint of kayaking around part of the bay. It gave a more intimate view of the karsts and exhibited the beauty of the area. We finished the day with a swim in the bay and relaxing on the boat's sun deck. The sunset was particularly stunning and I later enjoyed the few stars that were visible between the cloud-covered sky.
We spent the first night on the boat, which was quite comfortable. I was lucky enough to have my own room with a delightful double bed and private bathroom. The water pressure in the shower was incredible and the water was nice and warm. I was rather impressed! I slept very well, especially considering the night was plagued by a rain storm. There was a bit of lightning as well, which I enjoyed.

The next day we headed to Monkey Bay Island mid morning and spent the day relaxing on the island. I spent my time lounging on the beach and kayaking to the other side of the island to see the monkeys. I also did a short hike to an overlooking area and got a great view of the spot. It was a very relaxing day. Our last day was pretty uneventful. We had an early breakfast (7 a.m.) and then headed back to the boat to take a slow cruise back to shore. After a fast lunch, we were transported back to Hanoi.
Overall I was very impressed with the tour. It was a great, inclusive package and incredibly relaxing. I really enjoyed not having to think about itinerary or plan what to do. I was pleased to be directed and herded along. And there was a lot of comfortable down time to enjoy. But I think most importantly, I was with a great group of people. Every one was very kind and friendly. And we were all of a similar state of mind, wanting to enjoy the beauty of the area and its tranquility rather than partying it up and getting wasted. Everyone spoke English very well so it was easy for me to communicate with everyone! And happily I ran in to some of my cruise mates when we were back in Hanoi, which was a pleasant way to end my time in that crazy, busy city.
(Also, something to note: Most drinks are not included in the cruise. You only receive a welcome drink and tea or coffee for the final breakfast. Otherwise, you have to buy any drinks, including water, on the ship. And they charge about three times what you would pay normally... except when they push happy hour, but you will still pay much more. I brought a 5 liter jug of water on the ship, which was a fantastic decision-shout out to the girl I met in Sapa who warned me about the drink situation. But be warned that if you buy any drinks and bring them back to the ship, you will be charged a service fee. Since I brought the jug of water on board from the start, I was not charged that fee. Additionally, the stay on Monkey Island Resort has the same drink situation. So I recommend bringing enough water and/or your drink of choice that you will need for the duration of the trip.)

Halong Bay Gratitude Journal
1. I'm grateful for water.
2. I'm grateful for sunscreen.
3. I'm grateful for good people.
4. I'm grateful for English.
5. I'm grateful for tranquil moments.
6. I'm grateful for lightning.

Hanoi

Chaotic and crowded.
Walking the streets of Hanoi was quite a hectic experience. The streets, especially in the Old Quarter, are crawling with motorbike riders, cars and other pedestrians. It is a constant stream of people moving, and you really have to pay attention so you don't end up getting hit.
It was a bit stressful, but I eventually got used to walking around, which I had to after doing so much exploring around the city. My time in Hanoi sandwiched my trip to Halong Bay.
I arrived in the city early Saturday morning (Aug. 30) on the overnight train SP8. I ended up sleeping through our arrival at Hanoi Station, and was violently shook awake by a train steward. I jumped up in a bleary-eyed frenzy and gathered my belongings together as quickly as possible. I was most likely the last passenger off the train! Thankfully Hanoi was the last stop on that train's route.
I headed out to the train station and followed my map (that I received when I flew in to Hanoi) to Hanoi Hostel. I hadn't booked a room, but I was hoping a bed would be available. After a long trek with my bag, I made it to the hostel around 5:30 a.m. At the time, the city was still asleep, and the streets a serene calm. I was able to book a room with the hostel no problem and even got breakfast that morning! It was some exciting stuff, because I has always wanted to just show up to a place and book a room rather than reserving online. So I was pleased it worked out so easily. I showered, ate and quizzed the hostel staff about what sites I should visit in the city. The girl I spoke with was incredibly helpful and told me all of the hot spots to visit.

 

Temple of Literature

 Hoan Kiem Lake

I saw Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Ho Cho Minh Museum, Presidential Palace, the Temple of Literature, St. Joseph's Cathedral, Hoa Lo Prison, Hoan Kiem Lake, Ngoc San Temple, and the Water Puppet Theater. It was a busy day. I walked around from about 9:30 a.m. and arrived back at the hostel around 6 p.m. I enjoyed each of the sites and think they are all worth a visit. And happily, I was able to get a student ticket (10,000 VND) for the Hoa Lo Prison and two temple entrances (regular price 25,000 dong).
I was hungry and tired by the time I returned to the hostel, but there weren't many restaurants in the vicinity near my abode. I started getting hangry (hungry and angry) and was so frustrated as I fruitlessly (and foodlessly) walked the streets near the hostel in search for somewhere to eat.

 

Banh Cuon

Thankfully, after a short plea to God to guide me somewhere, anywhere, I found a restaurant. I walked in and asked the tourists dining there what they ordered. Turns out I ended up at a famous restaurant known for its Banh Cuon (steamed rice cake with meat and topped with fried garlic). I was pleased to have stumbled upon such a noteworthy place and enjoyed two wonderful plates of Banh Cuon. It was really delicious, and not just because I was starving.
Later that night I ventured out to La Bomba Latina and was able to get in a few salsa and bachata dances. It was a great vibe and a really sweet group of people. I wished I could have stayed out dancing all night, but I needed to get some sleep before leaving early the next morning for my Halong Bay tour (a separate post will follow).
I returned to Hanoi from the tour Tuesday (Sept. 2) afternoon. It rained much of the day, so I was pleased I had done the majority of my sightseeing previously during the good weather. I didn't do much on Tuesday other than venture around the Old Quarter and grab some food. Happily as I was walking around looking for a place to eat, I ran in to two of the girls on my Halong Bay cruise. They were near the end of their meal, so we just chatted a bit and I continued my search. I zeroed in on a restaurant that had two dishes I wanted to try: Bun Bo Nam Bo (a delicious noodle dish with beef, yum!) and Nem Cua Be (crab spring rolls). I had just decided which table to sit at when I ran into another member of my Halong Bay tour. Miguel was also out in search for food, so he joined me. It was a nice chat and great to dine with company.
The next day I slept in as long as possible and hung out at the hostel for a significant chunk of the morning. In the early afternoon I walked around the Old Quarter a bit more. I went to Giang Cafe to try their unique and famous drink, egg coffee.

 

Egg Coffee

The best coffee I have ever had in my life. No exaggeration! It was incredible. According to the cafe's website, the drink is made with chicken egg yolk, Vietnamese coffee powder, sweetened condensed milk, butter and cheese. The coffee is brewed and the other ingredients are whisked together and added to the coffee. The cup of coffee is then placed in a bowl with hot water to keep the drink hot. If you do only one thing in Hanoi, this is it. Go and drink this coffee. I only had it on the last day I was in the city, so I decided to have it twice. After the first cup, and a nice conversation with a guy who also just finished teaching in Korea (Chris was in a small village near Daegu and was originally from Connecticut), I headed out to get some food... clearly much of my travel is centered around my tummy and trying new foods. I went to Cau Go Street and ate Bun Thang. It was a soup with thin rice noodles and small slices of chicken. Pretty similar to Pho, but with a different overall taste. It was really delicious. Then I popped over to a bakery to grab a muffin and croissant for my bus ride to Hue that night. I still had a bit of time before the bus was scheduled to leave, so I figured I'd go back and get that second cup of egg coffee. It was really a great decision, and the second cup was just as delicious as the first. And since it was just less than a dollar, I didn't feel guilty indulging.
Then I finally headed back to my hostel and rested until the bus picked me up, well the shuttle to the bus really. It was a long night of travel to Hue. More to come on that later.

Hanoi Gratitude Journal
1. I'm grateful for helpful people.
2. I'm grateful for trees.
3. I'm grateful for salsa dancing.
4. I'm grateful for included breakfast.
5. I'm grateful for maps.
6. I'm grateful for street signs.

Sapa

Rolling hills, rice terraces and raging waterfalls.
Sapa is lush and gorgeous. Green is the most prominent color in the area, but it never becomes monotonous. The city and surrounding villages are absolutely stunning. 
I spent four days and three nights in Sapa, which in truth was one of each too many. Though I did enjoy getting a nice, leisurely start to my travels. And the area is really beautiful, so it wasn't a total waste!
After an overnight train ride from Hanoi (on the SP3, which left Hanoi right on time at 9:50 p.m. and arrived about an hour behind schedule at 7:40 a.m.; cost was 650,000 VND/ $30.50 for the soft sleeper, which was quite comfortable and clean), I arrived in Lao Cai. Thankfully I booked a pickup with my hotel, which turned out to be the cheaper option and was really much more convenient than trying to find someone to take me to Sapa when I was still wiping the sleep from my eyes.
I stayed at Green Valley Hotel, which I would definitely recommend! The staff was quite nice and helpful. The hotel is located a bit outside of the main Sapa area, but it is a benefit. It is a short 10 minute walk to the center of Sapa and only about 5 minutes to get to the start of the restaurants and shops. The hotel is up on a hill with an incredible view of the rice paddies across the way. And the rooms are comfortable, clean and cheap! My stay in the four-bed dorm, which really was just a hotel room with three (yep, not four!) twin beds and en-suite facilities, was only $3 per night. There was also a nice common area with a pool table and a restaurant with good, fairly cheap food.
My first day in Sapa I mostly just walked around the immediate town area and hung out with some of the other hotel guests. I was not fully rested from the overnight train ride the night before, so I was lagging and decided to relax.

 

Heading to the Villages

The next day was a completely different story. I set out in the early afternoon and hiked a bit more than 10 miles round trip to two of the nearby villages, Lao Chai and Ta Vang. I walked through the rice paddies and the mountains, constantly stunned by the gorgeous views. I wasn't always sure where to go, but would run in to village women who would point me in the right direction. I decided to venture out alone, but there are several tours that will take you to the villages or you can pay a village lady to take you. I figured I'd save some cash, since I have just started my travels. It worked out really well and was plenty enjoyable. Perhaps I didn't get the full experience others did-say with an overnight at a village home or even just a lunch-but I was content. I did, however, eat dinner with my fellow hotel guests that night. A Vietnamese family was also in the restaurant celebrating a birthday, and they were kind enough to share their cake with us. It was such a sweet treat!

 

Thac Bac 

My final full day in Sapa, I set out with the intention of renting a motorbike and riding up to Silver Falls (Thac Bac) and along Tram Ton Pass. It being my first (ok, second...Ubud, Indonesia, where I freaked out and decided not to ride) time driving a motorbike, I was a bit nervous. I got a quick run down of what to do and decided to just go for it. Two seconds after taking off, I panicked. I thought I was going to run over a little village lady, so instead of letting go of the throttle and correcting my steering, I pulled a sled-gone-out-of-control-downhill bail out. Or really, I crashed. Thankfully I wasn't going fast enough to do any real damage (a bruise and minor abrasion to my left calf were all I suffered), and I didn't hit any one. The bike just fell to the ground and I had to catch myself from falling with it. My ego and pride did suffer, but I decided not to rent the bike. So I set off, walking, into town and had some breakfast. After gathering myself, I went to another bike place and asked for a guided tour. I was able to talk the guy down to $10, which secured me a driver to take me to Thac Bac and Tram Ton Pass. Oh, and a short lesson on how to drive an automatic bike upon my return. I was determined to acquire the skill!

 

Tram Ton Pass

My driver, Tian, was really sweet, and I didn't mind paying double what I would have paid to rent the bike and drive myself. Because, really, my life is worth way more than $5 and who knows how much I might have racked up in medical expenses? And I am really glad that I didn't just throw in the towel and mope around all day, because the waterfalls and the pass were my favorite part of Sapa. Both were incredibly beautiful! The rice terraces are an impressive feat of man, which has led to a stunning view. But it is nothing in comparison with the masterful artistry with which God has landscaped parts of this Earth. After our short adventure up the winding hills of the pass, we headed back to Sapa, where I got another go a driving a motorbike. This time I was prepared: it's all about the throttle...just let it go a bit if you are going to fast...don't freak out...just breathe. These thoughts in mind, I started the engine and took off...after establishing a wide, open gap in traffic. And I'm happy to say it was a complete success. I felt a bit foolish for making it such a big deal and seemingly incredibly difficult. Because really, it was quite as easy as everyone made it out to be. That's not to say that I didn't stall out once or twice from revving the engine too little, but I was pleased indeed. Now I just have to wait for the next time I want to rent a bike to see the sights.
My truly final day in Sapa, the heavens unleashed their sorrows at my departure. But seriously, it rained tremendously all through the night and in to the next morning. The weather didn't really make me much inclined to venture out, but I decided to enjoy a bit more of Sapa before I left. So I went jaunting around the city once more and had my final meal in town. It was then another shuttle bus ride back to the train station to catch my overnight train to Hanoi.
Though I did enjoy my overall time in Sapa, I feel inclined to note a negative. The village ladies are like vultures! The minute they see a tourist, they pounce. It starts out innocently enough... "Hello. Where are you from? What's your name?" until in becomes, "You want shopping? You buy from me." It's all smiles and friendliness until you tell them you really aren't interested in shopping. And still they persist. No matter how many times you say no, they continue to ask. Eventually I just got steely and ignored people completely. I felt rude at first, but I was eventually frustrated at feeling so. I was just trying to enjoy my time in Sapa and take in the views. It is not my personal responsibility to buy from every single village woman and support every family in the area! Rant aside, I decided to compromise and give people a slight smile with a firm head shake and cast down eyes to clearly express my intentions without seemingly utterly aloof. And it appears it will be something for me to adopt as a way of life in the pushy country. And so it is.
Now on to a more positive note. A friend recently challenged me on facebook to write three things I am thankful for every day for a calendar week. I'm not really one to jump on the bandwagon with facebook challenges (or really any social media challenge), but this is one I can get behind. Just in my own way. Rather than posting each day for a week on facebook, I've decided to conclude with the things (any number I deem necessary) I am/was most thankful for during my time in each destination I travel.
Sapa Gratitude Journal
1. I'm so grateful for sunshine!
2. I'm grateful for the relief of cool weather.
3. I'm grateful for a determined attitude.
4. I'm grateful for times of rest.
5. I'm grateful for the undeniable beauty that is abundant in nature.

Goodbye Korea, Hello New Adventures

A lot has changed since my last blog post, including my hair. It went from red to platinum blonde to light brown. And then the cut changed from an equal length around the head, to one shaved side to a mohawk to buzzed.
But more importantly, I have wrapped up my time in Korea and am currently traveling Southeast Asia. It's incredible to think that my two years in Korea have come to a close. It was a life-changing experience, and I am so grateful for the relationships I established in the ROK. Friends became family, and I fell deeper (and back) in love with God. I am so thankful for His relentless love and unconditional mercy and grace.
I've had many wonderful experiences in Korea since my last post. Too many to make an exhaustive list. So some highlights:
-chatting with my amazing friends over several delicious cups of tea at the Happy Tea Shop
-my 25th birthday
-eating live octopus and silkworm pupae
-salmon sushi at Sushi Last
-AIA Real Life : Now Music Festival
-Shanna's wedding and hanging with the family

It was difficult to leave Korea. I was sad to say goodbye to so many fantastic friends and a country I really enjoyed. But I am thankful to have an experience and people worth missing. And the world is so accessible that I know I will be able to see my dear friends again (plus we always have Heaven if we don't meet again on Earth).
During my time in Korea I learned so much about myself. What makes me tick; what frustrates me; what makes me happiest; what I truly consider important. And the list could go on. But I think the most important lesson I learned was that home isn't a location or a building; it's the people you come to love. I'm so blessed to have so many homes in so many parts of the world.

I'm currently waiting in a cafe, which I have practically made a new home at, in Hanoi, Vietnam to catch my overnight train to Lao Cai. I have been here for about four and a half, and I have another one more to go until I head back to the train station to catch my train. It has been a great journey thus far:
5:30 a.m. woke up
6:35 a.m. goodbye apartment, rode the subway to Dongdaegu Bus Station
7:40 a.m. rode the bus to Gimhae Airport in Busan, South Korea
9:00 a.m. arrived and checked in for my flight (ate my favorite Korean snacks)
11:05 a.m. departed from Busan
1:10 p.m. landed in Hanoi (four hour flight- two hour time difference)
2:10 p.m. left the airport after going through customs and such
2:25 p.m. found local bus 17 just in time to catch a ride to the main part of the city (9,000 VND/ $.42)
3:40 p.m. rode bus 1 to Hanoi Train Station (7,000 VND/ $.33)
3:55 p.m. got my overnight train ticket to Lao Cai
4 p.m. onward, chilling at this cafe

Everything has been going really smoothly-hopefully I'm not jinxing myself!-and I've met a lot of helpful people.
Some notes:
Bus 17 is way out away from the doors of the airport. You have to walk past the crew pick up area, and cross over to an area somewhat shielded by trees. Just keep asking people where local bus 17 is (don't be fooled by the minibus driver with a bus numbered 17 as almost happened to me unless you want to pay 40,000 VND) and trust your instinct to go a bit farther. It is really in an area of it's own. The ride took about an hour and 15 minutes. Ride until the final stop.
Bus 1's platform is across from where bus 17 drops you off. It is as the front most station. The bus came about 5 minutes after bus 17 dropped me off. There will be several motorcyclists asking you if you want a ride in to town. Up to you, but if you have time, I suggest waiting for the bus. That ride was about 10 or 15 minutes to the train station, which is stop Ga Ha Noi (means Hanoi Train Station).
Also, two people are working on the bus. One drives and the other comes and collects the fee. You can sit down first and pay when he comes to you.
And when you get to the train station, be sure to get a number to buy a ticket. Otherwise you will be waiting in line to no avail. The queue number is available at a machine on your right hand side just before entering the ticket area. There are three choices, all written in English. The first to buy a ticket, the second for a function I forgot, and the third to return tickets.
I've got a soft sleeper for my epic journey on train SP3 21:50-06:25. We'll see how it goes.

Feasting on Fido

I finally tried 보신탕, which is dog soup.

I'm sure you've just had an involuntary reaction: disgust, awe. I get it. Dog soup isn't a common dish around the world, so my decision to try it is a little hard to digest.

So let's dig in to that a bit. First, it's important to know that the dish is seen as a specialty in Korea and is viewed with mixed opinions. Many Koreans have never eaten dog, do not agree with serving dog meat and think it should cease. They are also critical of the methods used to kill the dogs, which may include beating or hanging, but it is uncommon these days as most dogs are instantly killed with an electric shock. Others, especially the older crowd, want to continue the practice, seeing it as part of the country's tradition. Additionally, the dog meat doesn't come from just any dog running around the street. The common breeds, Nureongi (누렁이) and Hwangu (황구), are raised as livestock.

Personally, I don't see a problem with eating an animal that is raised for the purpose of consumption. Ideally it would be raised in a nice environment and killed humanely. So I decided to try out this specialty while the opportunity was available. 

Now, on to the experience. I had been wanting to try dog for a while, but it wasn't easy to find people who wanted to go with me. And it wasn't something I wanted to do alone. I needed to react in real time with someone sharing the experience! Luckily my friend Anton also wanted to give it a whirl, so we headed to a restaurant in downtown Daegu. We went to Cheongdo Restaurant (청도 식당). On the way to the restaurant we joked about it having pictures of dogs on the storefront (this actually happens occasionally: posters of fluffy yellow ducks lining the walls of a duck restaurant entrance), but thankfully there weren't any pictures of dogs. There were, however, some goats pictured. I'm not sure if the restaurant also served goat, but it was funny.

We each ordered the soup, which was 10,000 won (a bit less than $10) each. The soup was incredibly hot when it came out, so I had to give it a bit of time to cool off before I could start. I was glad to have the time though, because it gave me a moment to catch my breath and settle my stomach. I was a little nervous, but mostly excited. I was finally going to try some dog! 

Preparing for the first bite.

The first bite I took was a fatty piece, which ended up being one of two pieces of that style, that had very little meat on it. It wasn't too bad, but it was chewy and bland. Round two provided a much better experience. I ate a nice chunk of meat, which was really tasty. The meat was a dark grey and had a nice meaty texture. It didn't really have a distinct flavor, but was very tender. I would say the texture was what I imagine the stringiness of pulled pork mixed with the firmness of a thick steak would be like. After my second bite, I was sold and really enjoyed the soup. The soup had a rich, mildly spicy broth filled with a generous helping of meat along with green onions, mushrooms and some other vegetables.

First bite.

Contemplating...

Yum! I like it.

We also received a few side dishes, including bean sprouts, peppers and a mysterious cold cut of dog. Anton and I tried to figure out what part of the body it came from, but we reached no solid conclusion. Whatever it was, it was chewy and cold. Absolutely awful! I chewed it as little as possible and drank some tea to help wash it down. I then decided to eat a pepper to help cleanse my palate. Was that ever a mistake! The peppers are tricky, because their spiciness is inconsistent. I picked one of the hottest peppers I have had in Korea, and my mouth was on fire. Tears leaked from my eyes; my nose was running. Thankfully the heat died down within a few minutes and I was able to enjoy my dog soup again.

My dog-eating adventure was a delightful experience. I really did enjoy the soup, though my stomach did the occasional jump as I remembered that I was eating dog. I am really glad that I tried it. I don't feel the need to run out and get it every week, but I wouldn't be opposed to eating it again if the opportunity arose.

Bonus shot- Anton liked it too.

Long Weekend

I had a much-needed, long break from work the first weekend of this month. May 1 was labor day, May 2 my school was closed, May 3 and 4 were the regular weekend, May 5 was Children's Day and May 6 was Buddha's birthday, making for a fabulous 6-day weekend! It was incredibly refreshing to get away from school for so long. I traveled to Busan and Seoul, which was a nice change of pace from Daegu. It had been months since I had been to either city.

Thursday (May 1), I headed to Busan in the early afternoon, stopping first in Gwangalli Beach. It was the first time I've been. I wasn't super impressed, but it did seem to have a nice offering of restaurants. And I want to see it some time at night to enjoy the light show on the bridge. I didn't spend too much time there. Just walked the length of the beach and grabbed a late lunch at a Vietnamese restaurant.

I then headed toward Samgwangsa and met up with Meghan. We headed to the temple and enjoyed one of the most beautiful displays of lanterns in Korea for Buddha's birthday. The lanterns were impressive during the day, but they really shined (haha, I'm so punny) when they were lit at night. The temple itself was also one of the most interesting temples I have seen in Korea. Most of the temples tend to be a bit monotonous, but this one had a variety of unique features. It was really gorgeous, especially with the rows and rows of lanterns. After visiting the temple, I headed back home to Daegu.

The next day I got a lazy start and eventually headed up to Seoul. I arrived fairly late, so I just headed to Itaewon for dinner. I went to JR's Southern Style BBQ, which was pretty disappointing. I got a half rack of baby back ribs, but they were really tough and seemed like fairly crappy meat. Then I headed to my hostel. I stayed at Pine Tree Guest House near the Samgakji subway stop. It was a nice place with comfortable beds and lovely facilities. But I forgot how much is sucks to sleep in a dorm style room! I didn't get a solid night's rest while I was there, but that's just part of the hostel experience. 

Saturday I headed to Everland. It was very similar to Disneyland. There were a few rides, the themes were heavy and there were lots of characters and some parades. I thought it was a pretty nice place, but one day was definitely enough for me. I am more of a thrill seeker and roller coaster rider, so the theme park is not my favorite. That being said, there were a few good coasters, namely the T-Express, a wooden coaster with one of the highest drops in the world. It was a lot smoother than most wooden coasters I've been on. And another bonus was that they served beer (cans and draught) in the park. I just enjoyed that is was available there. But the park is such a journey from Seoul that I wouldn't say it is a must see.

I left my hostel around 9:15 a.m., took the subway to Gangnam, waited an hour at the public bus stop, rode the bus (number 5002) for an hour and a half, and finally took a 10-minute shuttle from the parking lot to the front gates of the park. All in all, the journey took about three and a half hours! Granted that was using public transportation, so driving on your own or taking a taxi would probably be much faster. But at about $3 for the one-way journey, it is hard to sacrifice the great price to save some time.

In the evening I headed back to Itaewon for dinner. I intended to try out Vatos Urban Tacos, an upscale Mexican restaurant, but the line was insane. One girl said they had been waiting an hour just to get a buzzer, let alone to be seated any time soon. So I debated what to eat instead and ended up at Taco Bell. And I'm glad I did. Taco Bell really is its own genre of food, and it is so tasty! It really hit the spot and was a nice treat.

Sunday I met up with Jenny and she and I headed to church. Before the service, we grabbed a delicious lunch at a small cafe. We each got a tasty panini and scrumptious, fresh-squeezed glass of juice. Then we went to Every Nation Church for their international service. It was amazing! That place is so filled with God's presence and love. I wept from the first note of worship to the end of the message. They weren't tears of conviction or guilty or sadness; they were tears of awe and veneration. I just felt so overwhelmed by His spirit. And the worship was beautiful. The lead singer had a lovely voice. And the message was powerful and so timely. It was all about being God's masterpieces and loving God and ourselves so we can love others. They showed this excellent skit, which really captured the essence of the message, check it out if you have time. I definitely plan to visit that church again any time I am in Seoul on a Sunday.
After church Jenny and I headed to Hongdae and grabbed a tea before splitting ways to meet up with other friends. I also found a hoop nose ring, which I have been wanting for a few months now! I'm so glad that I was finally able to find it somewhere in Korea. Hongdae really has a unique vibe from the rest of the country. It is such a diverse, artsy place. I'm a big fan.

Later in the evening I met up with Taejoon. I still think it's hilariously awesome that we randomly met in a hostel in Switzerland, but have kept in touch and hang out every once in a while. We grabbed dinner at a Japanese-run ramen place. It was so delicious! We each got the black ramen, which was in a nice mildly spicy soup and had two melt-in-your-mouth tender pieces of pork. It was definitely the best ramen I have had in Korea and is very similar to the quality stuff you will find in Japan. After dinner we headed to a beer garden place and chatted while drinking a few beers. I enjoyed a couple of Hefe-weizens and a Blue Moon (I can't even remember the last time I was able to get a Blue Moon, and it was so good). It was great to catch up with Taejoon.

Monday Jenny and I met up again for lunch in Itaewon at a Greek restaurant. I was hopping to enjoy their gyro lunch special, but it isn't available on holidays. It worked out well though, because we shared a Greek salad and each got spanakopita. It was really delicious and so fresh. We then headed to an international food store and bought a few items before finally taking the train back to Daegu. On the final day of my vacation, I lounged around at home and squeezed in a Costco trip. It was nice to take a lazy day to recuperate from my time away.

Little Adventures

Nothing too big has been going on lately; I've just been enjoying life with friends, food and fun. But I have had a few small adventures in the past few weeks (with the exception of a fairly significant outing this past weekend, which will be detailed in a following post!).

I've finally started attending Zumba classes here in Daegu, which I've been meaning to do for months! It has been so much fun and a great way to work out. I'm glad I got my lazy butt in gear!

I also went to see the Phantom of the Opera (live) with Jenny and Cynthia during the second weekend of April. The performance was spectacular! I got the chills when the orchestra played the opening music. I was very impressed with the company's performance (it was a Western group, so it was performed in English) and the orchestra. Though I wouldn't have minded if the phantom had a bit more of an ominous voice. Overall it was a quality show and fun to see such a classic.
The next week our church had a Seder dinner the Friday before Easter. It was my first Seder experience. I really enjoyed seeing the whole process from start to finish and partaking in all the traditions. We had to adapt it a bit to fit with the things we had available in Korea, but I was really impressed with how smooth and legitimate the event was. And the food, once we finally got to the feasting portion, was absolutely delicious. It was a great experience!
The next day was quite busy. I attended a wedding, went to an evening church service and danced at another bachata event (which was an absolute blast). My previous coteacher Eunji (은지) was sweet enough to invite me to her wedding. I was really excited to go, because I was happy for her and it was my first Korean wedding! I had been briefed by friends who've been to other weddings about the process before I attended, but it was still an interesting experience.

I would say the goal of a Korean wedding is efficiency and speed. The whole ceremony, including taking pictures with the couple, was finished within half an hour. And many of the patrons left after the bride completed her walk down the aisle. And the majority of those who stayed proceeded to have loud conversations throughout the entire ceremony. There was even a child with a barking toy dog running free in the back! Additionally, the lights were used excessively, flickering on and off for different parts of the ceremony while the staff ran around, instructing everyone about what to do. My favorite of whom was the lady, dressed in jeans and a baggy T-shirt, who kept adjusting Eunji's dress, making sure it was perfectly placed for each picture. It all seemed like a big show with an under-rehearsed act and an inattentive audience rather than an important celebration. But I guess that is just a difference in culture! And I was happy to show my support for my friend and enjoy the buffet meal at the end of the ceremony. I'm definitely glad I was able to experience a Korean wedding before heading home.
On Sunday a few friends went out to a traditional makgeolli joint after church to celebrate Vincent's birthday. It was a nice, relaxed evening of drinking and hanging out. And I was impressed we found the place, because it had been more than a year since we had gone previously, but we zeroed in on it in the first try.
The following week was pretty quiet; mostly just work and lounging at home. Though I am currently taking more advantage of having access to my roof. I started doing yoga up on my roof when the weather is nice, which has been more frequent as of late. My roof has a really great view! I can see much of the surrounding buildings, but also the mountains that hug the area. It is a nice, serene spot. I'm really loving spending time up there.
The next weekend I watched Captain America with Elizabeth and Meghan. The movie was definitely much better than the first one, but it was still a bit ridiculous. Though it was a fun movie to see and nice for a simple evening. After the movie, we headed to an all-you-can-eat barbecue place. I finally tried 곱창 (gopchang pig intestines) and 막창 (makchang, pig intestines/rectum). It wasn't too bad, but it's not something I need to eat often. It had a lot of fatty tissue, and I'd rather eat actual meat. But I'm definitely glad I finally tried them both.

The last Sunday of the month, we had a basketball tournament after church. It was so much fun and reminded me just how much I love playing the game. I was definitely not in basketball shape, but I still loved every second of it. I played last year as well and had a blast, but this year was even better, because the competition and skill level was significantly higher this time around. April was a great month!

Wonderful Weekend

 Last weekend was amazing from start to finish! I spent it with wonderful people and doing lots of fun things. Friday night I met up with my lovely friend Rina for dinner (at Nazar Kebab- love Turkish food!) and catching up. It had been far too long, and I really enjoyed spending time with her and learning what she has been doing and is planning to do. We also enjoyed a tasty bubble tea after dinner and chatted even more. It was a delightful evening!

 Saturday I headed to the jimjilbang (Korean public bath house/sauna) with Jenny and Elizabeth. There is a really nice one fairly close to my house, so it is convenient for me to get to, but I just don't do it often enough. We spent the early afternoon sweating in the co-ed sauna, wearing our fashionable jimjilbang gear, and then soaking in the warm baths. It was incredibly relaxing. We also all got an adjuma scrub down. It was Jenny and Elizabeth's first time! I really love the scrub down and definitely needed it this time! All my old skin was scrubbed off, leaving a smooth layer of soft skin. It felt like I shed my winter coat and am now ready for spring.

 After the jimjilbang we headed downtown to watch the short play, Pirates of Penzance. It was a fun comedy performed by several foreigners in Daegu, a few of whom I know. The show was great and had lots of hilarious cultural references. I was impressed with the talent we have in Daegu and happy to finally see one of their shows. After the show Elizabeth and I went to Nazar Kebab for dinner (seriously, I love this place; that is not the first time I have been two days in a row) and then enjoyed a coffee at my favorite coffee shop in Daegu, Waiting Coffee. We then headed to Traveler's Bar and Grill to hang out with a few other people. 

 I left fairly soon after, because I was headed to a bachata party at Babalu, a salsa club in Daegu. I originally wasn't sure if I wanted to attend the party, because it was 20,000 won, but now I am so glad I went! It was worth every cent. Turned out to be the best night of dancing I've experienced in Korea and is in the top three for best nights of dancing of all time! I am still pumped just thinking about it and wish I could go back and dance even more! Koreans really know how to get down and have such flair and style. And of course, I loved dancing with all of my foreigner friends as well. I wish I could convey how amazing it was, but I just can't find the right words to express it. The bachata party itself lasted til about 3:30 a.m. But we weren't done yet, because we headed to another venue for an after party. I stayed out until 6 a.m., dancing the majority of the time. I would have stayed even longer if I didn't have any plans for Sunday! I had to drag myself home so I could get some sleep. And since the subway was up and running again, it was a cheap way to get home. Seriously so much fun!

 After a brief nap, I was up again to start my Sunday. I went to church and then headed downtown with Elizabeth to grab some dinner. After eating, we did some shopping at H&M. It was a nice day and great to see everyone at church. I headed home and went to bed pretty early, trying to catch up on some sleep. It was a wonderful weekend!

 And seriously, the dancing was incredible.

Gurye Sansuyu Flower Festival

My friends, Jenny and Elizabeth, and I headed to Gurye for the Sansuyu Flower Festival on March 22. It was a pretty small festival compared to others I have been to, but it still offered quite a bit. We took a bus early Saturday morning to Gurye, where we stayed the night at Little Prince Pension. It was a really cute place with a log cabin feel. And the bed was super comfortable, which is not always the case in Korea.
We spent the rest of Saturday walking around the festival grounds. There were several booths offering typical festival foods and some for making various items from the sansusyu flower or berry. We also wandered through the surrounding area, which was filled with lots of trees covered with the yellow flower. I think the trees are best appreciated very close up, so you can see the interesting shape of the flower, or from quite a distance, so it looks like a sea of yellow. They weren't the most impressive blossoms I've seen, but they had their own unique beauty. And it produces a delicious berry, which makes some tasty tea and makgeolli (Korean rice wine).

Since we were at the festival on the opening day, we were able to enjoy a bit more exciting of a schedule than the other days presented. There were several live performances throughout the day, including a percussion band and several dancers and singers. Girl's Day, a fairly popular K-pop group, also performed. We didn't know about the performances beforehand, so it was a nice surprise and a delightful experience. We were sat on some rocks near the top of a (man-made) fountain to watch the performances, giving us a nice view of the stage. And the experience was made all the better by the delicious sansuyu makgeolli we drank. We bought two bottles of prepackaged makgeolli from one of the stalls, but then later discovered a booth selling freshly made makgeolli for an even better price. We were a bit bummed at first, because the fresh stuff was so much better. So we drank one of the prepackaged bottles, but then decided the fresh stuff was just too good to pass up. We ended up drinking a bottle of the fresh stuff as well, skipping our second prepackaged bottle. I would definitely prefer to have fresh makgeolli any time! I was amazed at the difference in taste. It was a fantastic evening.

Sunday we headed to Hwaeomsa Temple, which was very close to our pension. There was a 3,500 won charge to get in, which I thought was a bit steep. The temple was lovely and had a bit different of a lay out from other Korean temples I've seen. There were also a few unpainted buildings, which really allowed the beauty of the wood and carvings to show. The trees and surrounding mountainside were also beautiful, and the weather was perfect. It was a really lovely area and a serene place to stroll through.
After our hike, we checked out and headed back to the festival area with the intention of visiting the hot spring spa in the area. Unfortunately, by the time we made it to the area (traffic at festivals in Korea is insane! they just never seem to plan strategically for it), we didn't have enough time to enjoy the hot springs. We ended up getting (a late) lunch at one of the restaurants in the area, and then riding the bus back to the Gurye bus terminal to catch our bus back to Daegu. The ride back to Daegu felt so long, and I was happy when we finally arrived in the city a quarter to 9 p.m. I then rode the subway home, unpacking and relaxing a bit before turning in for the night.
Overall, the Sansuyu Festival was quite nice. I was so glad to share it with my lovely friends. They definitely made the experience even better!

Visitng the Orthopedic Doctor

My spine.

My favorite part of the process!

 Two weeks ago I was washing my feet in the shower and had to twist to catch my balance, which I did in just the right way to strain my low back muscle. It was a quick, sharp pain that started out fairly subtle but got worse throughout the day. I was a bit nervous about the extent of the damage (though I figured it was only the muscle), so I decided to head to an orthopedic surgery office, which was within a 7 minute walk to my house. It was really convenient! My coteacher was kind enough to write my condition and what happened in Korean, but the doctor spoke English quite well, so it was easy to communicate with him. He checked my spine and decided that it was only a strain on the muscle.

 I then received some simple, but delightful physical therapy. I laid on a heating pad for about 10 minutes, then had two machines target the low back. The first machine (pictured above) was my favorite! The four suction cups were attached to my low back, and then the machine sent pulsing waves of vibration to my muscles. It felt like someone was alternating between kneading my back and pinching it together. It was really relaxing, and I was disappointed when the timer went off. The session ended with the second machine, which I am still a bit confused by. I don't really know what it is, but it essentially felt like it was sending small electric zaps to my muscles. It was very subtle and an interesting feeling! I then headed to a pharmacy for the pain killer and muscle relaxer the doctor prescribed for the next three days (three times a day).

 But three days later the pain was worse, so I went back. The second time he did an X-ray of my spine and came to the same conclusion. He said I just needed to give it a bit more time. I went through the physical therapy process one more time and got another round of medicine. But I decided to stop taking the pills the next day, since they didn't seem to make a huge difference. Instead, I got some medicinal hot patches to stick on my back. They really helped! I put one on in the morning to wear throughout my day at work, and a new one on at night. The constant heat helped relieve my muscles and reduced the pain. Overall, the pain lasted for about a week. I am happy to be back to normal and not having any more pain to slow me down. And I was again amazed by the speed, efficiency and low cost of Korean health care. They definitely do medicine well here!

Philippines

I recently spent a week diving, relaxing and lounging on the beach in the gorgeous Philippines. It was a great time in a fantastic place. The weather was perfect: sunny and warm. The people were great. And of course I loved the food; though in all honestly, I mostly indulged in western style grub.

 
First(ish) Stop: Boracay Island

I spent the better part of my first day traveling from Daegu to Boracay Island. My journey started with catching a taxi at 1:50 a.m. to get to the express bus terminal in East Daegu. After a four-hour bus ride, I arrived at Incheon International Airport, where I checked in for my flight and waited about two hours. We flew into Manila, where I waited for my next flight to Caticlan for another three hours. I arrived in Caticlan around 3:45 p.m. I was then taken on a short tricycle ride to the jetty port, where I hopped on a boat to Boracay Island. After another tricycle trip and a bit of walking, I finally arrived at Dive Gurus, my home for the next few days.
I was quite tired after my nearly 16-hour journey, but the beautiful ocean and powdery white sands quickly made me forget my weariness. I dropped my few possessions in my room and then headed off to stroll along the famous White Beach. It is a good sized stretch of sand; I was able to leisurely walk the length of the beach in about 45 minutes. The sand is some of the finest I've encountered. It was incredibly soft. And the sunsets are stunning.

Boracay is one of the places I've been that moments after arrival makes it very evident why it is such a popular destination. It had a great blend of relaxed beach vibe, water activities and nightlife. But even during the busiest time of year, I never felt like it was overcrowded or spoiled by a mass of tourists. There is a wonderful balance to it that left me wanting more. Certainly a spot I would happily return to time and again.
I spent much of my time sprawled out on the beach but nearly an equal amount of time exploring the underwater world. I got my Advanced Open Water certification from Dive Gurus. I would highly recommend diving, completing courses, and staying at Dive Gurus. The entire staff is wonderful, the equipment is in great condition, the accommodations are comfortable and clean, and it is in a great location. And my instructor, Jojo, was amazing. He was incredibly helpful and a great teacher. And I was lucky enough to get one-on-one instruction. During my course, I completed five dives: Dive Navigation, Wreck Dive, Peak Performance Buoyancy, Deep Dive and Night Dive. The course was much more fun than the Open Water, because the vast majority of the time is spent in the water doing the dives, rather than reading through copious amounts of instructions and theories or watching sleep-inducing videos. I enjoyed the wreck and night dives most. I actually did two wreck dives (the second counted as my deep dive). One was Camia II, a purposely sunk boat; the other Tri Bird, a purposely sunk plane. It was interesting to see how the sea life claimed them, building little reefs along the remnants of the wrecks. And the night dive was exciting, because the ocean was a whole new place in the dark. It was a bit nerve-wracking looking around and seeing a wall of black surround you. But with flashlight in hand, I was able to see lots of critters: hermit crabs, urchins and a huge crab. After my night dive, I had finished my course. Now I am officially and Advanced Open Water diver! I have grown quite a love for diving, so hopefully in the future I'll be able to keep diving more and maybe work my way up the chain of certifications.

I opted for a little adventure on land for my last full day on the island. I did a (short) zipline over a beautiful secluded beach and then rolled down a hill in a giant inflatable ball. The zipline was over quickly, but the area was absolutely stunning. I then headed to the Zorb Park, where I jumped into an inflatable ball filled with a bit of water. I had hoped to do the dry Zorb, which you are strapped into, because it seemed like more fun. But sadly the wet Zorb was my only option. It was an interesting experience and mildly fun. Though once in a lifetime is enough for me. It was a pretty jarring ride as I flopped all over the place while the ball rolled down the hill. Thankfully it was a short ride, so it didn't become intolerable. That being said, something I'm glad I experienced. I ended the day by lounging on the beach and soaking in the last rays from the sun before the beautiful, fiery sunset.

Next Up: El Nido

I spent my the next day on another epic journey of travel. I did the tricycle, boat, tricycle ride back to the airport in Caticlan and then flew into Manila. I had a nearly four-hour layover, including a slight delay of the flight, in Manila. Then I flew into Puerto Princesa, where I had to wait about two hours to catch the six-hour van to El Nido. The first parts of the trip were fairly smooth, but once I was in the van, it was bumpy all the way to El Nido. The road connecting the two cities is paved about half of the way. The rest is loose dirt and gravel. But the whole of it is spread with bumpy, jostling terrain that made for a turbulent ride. Had it been during the day, it wouldn't have been too bad. But crammed into the van- that clearly was intended for one row of seats less than the five they had jammed in it- between 6:30 p.m. and 12:30 a.m. made for a terrible, nearly impossible, night's sleep. I was ecstatic to finally arrive in El Nido, where I hopped on yet another short tricycle ride to my accommodation, Casa Cecelia. I checked in, dropped my bags and headed straight to bed, glorious bed.

A mere six hours later (I'm a girl who loves sleep), I woke up for a small breakfast and then headed to DEEP Blue Seafari to dive yet again! I dove three times with a great group of people. We spent our down time between dives hanging out on the ship. It was nice to have a group of people to chat with. Many of them were also around my age, and we are all avid travelers. Hearing about the places they have been intensified my desire to keep traveling and exploring the world. I really enjoyed sharing our stories about our trials and successes as we've traversed around.

The diving was also great as were the many islands dotting the ocean. El Nido reminded me a lot of Ko Phi Phi in Thailand. Giant rocks covered in greenery jut up into the air with little spots of powdery white sand beaches below. Truly a beautiful sight. Sadly, I didn't have enough time to do a proper island tour, which is the activity for El Nido. But moving between dive sites gave me a similar feel to what an island hopping tour would have been like with the added bonus of seeing underneath the water as well. The dive sites in El Nido were even more spectacular than those in Boracay. There were a whole array of coral and fish decorating the sea. I saw lots of amazing creatures. It was a great place to dive and definitely trumped doing just an island tour in my book.

After we returned to shore, I walked up and down the few streets of the tiny city. El Nido is small, but still has a lot to offer. I was famished after all the diving and walking, so I met up with my new buddy from the dive trip, Emily, and we headed to dinner. We ended up at a busy Italian restaurant, Altrove. It was busy for good-no, great-reason: the food was scrumptious! We shared a delectable brick-oven baked mushroom pizza and a fresh plate of pesto pasta. Even with the Moroccan-like decorations and knowing I was in the Philippines, my mind was transported to Italy. The food was fresh, authentic and perhaps the best Italian food I've had outside of Italy (even better than some of the Italian food I ate while in Italy!). Definitely my favorite meal of the whole trip. After dinner we parted ways. I got a massage, indulged in a Nutella mango crepe, and then headed to bed.

The next morning was my last in El Nido; it was a short trip! I got another massage in the morning, lounged on the beach, and then prepped to leave back to Puerto Princesa after lunch. The van ride back was equally long and bumpy as the ride in but more tolerable during the day. And I rode shotgun, so I had plenty of leg room. I arrived in Puerto Princesa around 6 p.m. and headed straight to my hotel, By the Bay Jacana Bed and Breakfast. It was in a fairly secluded and forested area, which was perfect for my last night in the Philippines. I was able to rest and recuperate after a long, but rewarding, few days of travel. The staff were fantastic and the room was comfortable and clean. I ordered take out from a restaurant and then spent the evening relaxing in my room.

Saturday I slept in as late as I could and then headed to the airport after a bit of breakfast. I got into a bit of a squabble with another young woman when my line was merged with hers. My check-in line had been clearly marked for the Manila flight, but when the single neighboring check-in line for the Cebu flight was closed, my line was transformed into the Cebu line. So naturally, we all just shifted over in the line to our left, which was still dedicated to the Manila flight. Well, homegirl found that upsetting and took her frustration out on the nearest line merger: me. We proceeded to engage in a bit of a quarrel over line etiquette. She approached me saying that she supposed the line was several people back behind her; to which I responded that obviously it would be unfair for our line to have to wait behind a bunch of people who weren't even in the airport when we first queued simply because the staff decided to change things on us. Apparently my logic didn't suffice and she felt personally injured that I would try to "cut" in front of her. With rumors of the flight being canceled do to inclement weather (thankfully it was not!), I had more important things on my mind, so I took the space behind her instead. She seemed mildly appeased, but certainly in the mood to continue arguing if I proved a participating opponent. I still get a bit ruffled up thinking about it, but mostly it makes me laugh. Made for a more exciting morning.

I caught the flight to Manila, and then had to rush to Terminal 2 to catch my Philippines Airlines flight to Korea. (Note: Domestic flights are in Terminal 3, international flights (and some domestic) via Philippines Airlines are in Terminal 2 and international flights via other airlines are in Terminal 1.) I was originally under the impression that I could take a shuttle from Terminal 3 to Terminal 2, but apparently you must go from a Philippines Airlines flight to another Philippines Airlines flight. Since I flew into Manila with Cebu Pacific, I had to use the regular transportation to the other terminal. I was originally planning to use the bus, which is the cheaper method, but the next one was not scheduled to leave for another hour. The clock was really ticking at this point. I had a two hour gap between landing and taking off for my next flight. The first thirty minutes were quickly eaten up with waiting to exit the plane, mistakenly going to the shuttle and then looking for the area to catch the bus. I finally was able to get a taxi for an obnoxious and obviously overpriced 1,100 PHP or roughly 25 dollars. But I was desperate and needed to get to the terminal quickly. Better to pay extra for a cab than for a new plane ticket because I didn't make it to the terminal on time. Communication error at its finest, the taxi driver took me to Terminal 1. Though it was not his fault, rather the man with whom I spoke at the airport wrote down the incorrect terminal. Thankfully, I figured it out before the driver dropped me off and let him know I needed Terminal 2. He was very sweet and quickly remedied the situation, assuring me I would be on time. And thankfully I was. I only had a few minutes to spare, but I had enough time to check in, pay my terminal fee, go through customs and squeeze in a quick snack before boarding my flight back. I made it to Busan after a smooth flight, then caught the 9 p.m. bus to Daegu. Finally I took the subway to my stop and walked the short distance to my little home. It felt great to finally be back, though I certainly wouldn't have minded if I had been reclining on the sandy beaches in the Philippines instead.

The Philippines are really a treasure: the people are so kind and helpful, the beaches and cities are beautiful and the food is scrumptious. Something tells me I'll certainly be returning. For one reason or another!

Back at It

Hey there blogging world! It's been quite the hiatus for this blog, but not so much for my life! Right around the time of my most recent post (recent being a very loose term here, considering it was back in September!) I went through quite a trying time, and didn't have the heart to dedicate any time to this blog. Due to the very personal nature of this ongoing experience, I won't go into many details. May it suffice to share that I am growing, learning and adapting.  That being said, there is so much to catch up on that I surely won't be able to do it justice. So bear with me as I breeze through the past five months, highlighting the most important details.

Dad's Visit

My amazing father came to the Land of Kimchi to visit his favorite daughter... admit it sister... (don't fret: it's a family joke). I was pleased that Dad was able have a hands-on experience of Korea. I enjoyed sharing some of my favorite Korean food with him and showing off my city. We also traveled to Jeju Island together during the Chuseok holiday (Korea's rough equivalent of Thanksgiving). It was the perfect time, because the weather was sunny and warm, and the crowds were off in their homes, celebrating the holiday with family. Though getting tickets to fly in was a bit of a challenge, even though I booked them back in May! We just ended up flying in style: first class! It was a good bit of fun. We spent three full days on the island, allowing us to explore the best parts. My favorite spot on the island was Seongsan Ilchulbong, also know as Sunrise Peak. It was a beautiful crater towering over the picturesque ocean.We also visited the Manjanggul Tunnels (a series of lava tunnels), the racy Love Land, Cheonjeyeon Falls, a bit more of Seogwipo and hiked Eoseungsaengak. And of course we had to try the famous Black Pork. It was more fat than meat, so not ideal. But still fun to try and pretty tasty overall. I was certainly glad to visit Jeju Island, but once will be enough for a lifetime!
After flying back to Daegu, Dad and I hit up some of the more popular spots in Daegu. We visited Suseong Lake, Seomun Market, Duryu Park and downtown. I had Dad try lots of tasty Korean dishes, including bibimbap, gimbap, kalguksu and of course Korean barbecue and patbingsu! It was heartbreaking when he left, but I was so grateful he made the trek all the way here to visit. His presence was very soothing and rejuvenating!

                                      

DMZ Trip

On November 9, I went to the DMZ with a few friends. It was great finally checking out the spot of such tension. It was quite interesting learning about the history of the area and seeing it first hand. The two flags on each side of the DMZ were a more memorable aspect of the trip. They were subject to a bit of a pissing contest between the divided country. North Korea's flag ultimately rose above, flying on a 525-foot flagpole in Propaganda Village; the South Korean flag flies on a 323-foot flagpole in Daeseongdong. We were able to check out the Joint Security Area, the third infiltration tunnel, Dora Observatory and Dorasan station. I also really enjoyed peaking into North Korea with the telescopes at Dora Observatory. Made me curious as to what life in North Korea is truly like. And very grateful to be living in the South!

                                                         

                             

Christmas and New Year's

I was able to head back to good old California to celebrate Christmas and New Year's. It was an absolute delight to be home, and a much needed respite from Korea. I ate all the foods I love and missed, made up for all the time I hadn't been driving, and most importantly visited with my loved ones! I hit the ground running as soon as I got home and was kept (happily) busy the two weeks I was there. Mom and my sister picked me up from the airport and we went on a bit of a shopping spree on the way home. Next day we had a birthday party, complete with bounce house. Fun! Then several girlfriends came over for a festive champagne brunch of gingerbread house making. Christmas came up quickly! We went to my grandma's for Christmas Eve, did Christmas morning at Mom's, and then headed up to Dad's for Christmas dinner, which was delish. We were able to spend a few days at Dad's house, and then had a lovely dinner at my aunt's with the Sacramento family before returning to Mom's. I was able to meet up with friends for a few different meals, and rang in the New Year with a nice, small group. I wish I had had more time at home, but all good things must come to an end. It was truly a blessing to visit with so many great people! And my tummy and taste buds were thoroughly titillated by all the delicious delights I indulged in. Oh and also...

             
I cut my hair! I've always wanted to donate, and I've had quite a monotonous hairstyle all my life, ranging from just about chin length to the length you'll see in the picture on the left. I've never dyed it or done any type of permanent treatment to it. So I figured I'd give as much of my hair away as I could and play with it as it grows back out. Plus I was curious if I could pull off the buzz cut look. I must say I was pretty pleased with the result. My hair is sure to be a myriad of colors and styles as it grows back out, which I am looking forward to. Monotony no more... or at least not for a while! Also, for anyone else considering donating their locks, may I suggest going with Pantene Pro-V's Beautiful Lengths. I did a bit (emphasis there on a bit) of research, and from what I read, they seem to be one of the better organizations to go with. Here is the link: http://www.pantene.com/en-US/PanteneBeautifulLengths/Details/beautiful-lengths-make-the-cut.aspx

Well thanks for indulging in this brief overview of the last few months of my travels. I also recently journeyed to the Philippines, but I'll be conjuring up a separate post to focus solely on that trip. Heading your way soon!